How to Make Hairpin Jewelry

Metal hairpin jewelry hails from a time when long hair was considered fashionable. The appropriate style for adult women was the updo, which could be dressed up with elaborately decorated clips, combs and hairpins. Modern women still use updo hairstyles for formal events, and although the shapes and lengths of hair have changed, hair decoration continues to be acceptable and desired. Go a little vintage with your hair and forgo plastic and glitter trappings for a classy accessory from the past.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Metal wire of your choice Complementing sheet metal Jeweler's saw Files Sandpaper Mallet Jeweler's anvil Wire clippers Soldering equipment Polishing equipment

1. Research hairpin types to get a feel for the mechanics of hairpins from different periods. Choose a type that will complement your hair and personal style.

2. Draw your hairpin jewelry design in scale, making sure that there is a flat part of the design on which to solder the prongs. The total length of the hairpin should not exceed 5 inches unless you wish to make a very bold statement. When you are satisfied, photocopy the drawing.

3. Decide what materials you are going to use. You should use metal wire for the prong part of the hairpin, but you have some choice regarding the decorative top design. You can execute the decoration in wire, in cut sheet metal or in a combination.

4. Choose an appropriate thickness of wire and sheet metal. Hairpins are not thick or heavy, so your wire prongs should be fairly delicate. Use lightweight materials.

5. Cut a piece of wire double the length you have decided on for the prongs. Use wire clippers.

6. Bend the prongs into a horseshoe shape using a pair of needle-nosed pliers or an anvil, depending on how pliable your metal is. Follow your sketch and make sure the ends line up evenly. If you have ever looked at a modern hairpin or bobby pin, this is the shape you should have. You can also make waves in the prongs in the same manner.

7. Transfer the decorative top part of your drawing to your sheet metal and cut enough lengths of metal wire to complete your decorative design. You can transfer the drawing by gluing the paper to the sheet metal with two coats of rubber cement. Saw right through the paper and metal together.

8. Shape your metal over the anvil. Check to see that the prongs still fit your design.

9. File and sand all rough edges of all hairpin pieces. Rinse your design pieces in the pickle pot and let dry before continuing.

10. Solder all separate pieces of the decorative top design together using a hard solder. Cool the design in the pickle pot and let dry. File away any excess solder.

11. Solder the looped top part of the prongs to your decorative jewelry piece using softer solder. Place your design in the pickle pot until the black oxidation is gone and let the piece dry. Check to make sure the hairpin fits your original design, and test the functionality by putting the hairpin in your hair.

12. File and sand any remaining rough edges, surfaces and solder seams, then rinse the hairpin jewelry in the pickle pot. Polish the finished hairpin to your satisfaction.

Tips & Warnings

• Some common metals for hairpins are silver, gold and bronze. You can mix and match these metals or keep a uniform look. Wire can be thinned through a wire form, and sheet metal can be banged flat on an anvil. Metals can be made more pliable through annealing, or heating. Other aspects of metalworking can be applied to hairpin design. You can add stone settings, inlays and etching to the ornamental top part of the hairpin.
• Make sure that your hairpin design is not too top-heavy, or else you risk the pin falling easily out of the hair. Keep your hair tied back during all soldering and polishing aspects of the process. It is easy to catch long hair in a torch flame or polishing machine.

Resources

• Transferring Designs to Sheet Metal
• Metalworking Tool Guide
• Hairpin History