Sewing a Swimsuit
Finding the right swimsuit can be a challenge. If you can sew, making a swimsuit can be a way to get the perfect suit for your body, especially if you are hard to fit or prefer a suit that is not quite the style this year. While swimsuit fabrics are tricky to sew, with the right tools you will be set for the beach or pool before you know it.
- Difficulty:
- Moderate
Instructions
Things You'll Need
- Swimsuit fabric Elastic in 3/8 and 1/4 inch widths Lining fabric Bra inserts, underwires or cups Sewing machine and serger Pattern Polyester sewing thread Wooly nylon thread for serger loopers
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1
Choose a pattern. There are fewer swimwear patterns than you might expect available. The mainstream sewing pattern companies--including McCall's, Butterick and Simplicity--often have one or two patterns available in their summer catalogs. More specialized pattern companies such as Jalie and Kwik Sew have a slightly more varied selection. You can also find vintage swimsuit patterns or even a few free or low-cost ones available to print online.
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2
Find swimsuit fabric. Your pattern will indicate the required amount of stretch for your pattern. Be sure that the fabric you choose has adequate stretch. If you cannot find suitable fabric locally, look online. Shinier or boldly printed fabrics may be less slimming and show more flaws than a matte fabric with a bit more texture. You will also need lining fabric for the bust and crotch areas, as well as elastic. Cotton-covered elastic is a common choice. Typically 3/8-inch elastic is used for the legs and armholes and 1/4-inch elastic around the neck opening. Clear elastic may be used for straps. Swimsuits are most commonly self-bound with binding strips cut from the fabric. Allow enough fabric for this when you make your purchase.
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3
Remember bust support if sewing an adult woman's suit. You can buy swimwear bust inserts at many fabric stores. These are typically the molded-cup type. A shelf bra can be created with lining fabric and wider 3/4- or 1-inch elastic. If you prefer more support, scavenge a bra that fits you well for wires and cup shaping in your swimsuit.
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4
Cut out your pattern per the instructions. Be careful of both stretch and pattern, and position pieces carefully if you have a print. This is especially important at the center back seam. If you have a long torso, add length to accommodate it. You may also want to carefully blend the size lines to account for a generous bust or ample hips if you are narrow-waisted. Custom fitting is the main benefit of sewing swimwear. You should also cut binding strips at this point. Binding strips are cut with the stretch of the fabric for a knit like swimsuit fabric.
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5
Set up your sewing machine and serger. Use polyester serger thread, like Maxi-Lock, in your serger needles and wooly nylon in the loopers.
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6
Baste your suit on the sewing machine with polyester thread and a long stitch length. Try it on. Pin into place any adjustments or alterations as needed to make the suit fit properly. Mark these adjustments on the pattern before you make them on the suit.
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7
Sew the suit on the serger, adding lining and bust support when required. Try on the suit again to make final adjustments. Finally, bind the openings, adding elastic as required. You can use a double needle to top-stitch the bindings for a more professional look.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Sew with the elastic on the bottom, by the feed dogs, for the smoothest result.
Vintage patterns may be especially tricky. Try it first with practice fabric!
