How to Identify Vintage Costume Jewelry

You find a piece of older jewelry at the thrift store or flea market, but you don't know if it's real vintage jewelry or a remake. Read more to find out some tips to identify vintage costume jewelry and to learn what is the most collectible.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Magnifying Glass

1. 
    

   First you need to use a magnifying glass or a jewelers loupe so that you can see if the jewelry is marked and to help train your eye to see the difference between the old and the new. Here is an example of a vintage piece of Hobe.

2. 
    
   Rhodium back

   Look at the back of the piece. Is it rough or is it smooth? Older vintage jewelry is always smooth. It didn't start having rough backs till about the 1970's. Rhodium was used on most vintage jewelry and will still have a shiny silver or gold color today.

3. 
    
   Vintage Pins

   If you are looking at pins, take a look at the back and see what kind of fastener it has. The ones that look like a v are older from around the 1950-60's. The ones that are older will be soldered in two places. This is a good time to check for repairs on the pins. Any bulky soldering or a very long pin, would mean a repair. As you continue to look on the back check the swivel mechanism on the pin. Trifari pins has a flat area at the hinge, which makes identifying those pens easier. Note that the swivel catch can be found on jewelry today, which makes it hard to identify as a vintage piece. For an much older piece look for a pin without the swivel, like the white one in the picture.

4. 
    
   Red Rhinestone Pin with Prongs

   Rhinestones that are glued in can be an indication of age and of value. Look for jewelry that has been set in with prongs holding the rhinestones in. Glued in (pasted) rhinestones are very pretty and can be old, but is not as valuable and can mean a plastic stone instead of a rhinestone.

5. 
    

   On bead necklaces look for a slide or hook fastener. Most of them will show the mark on that part of the jewelry. Both of these types of fasteners were used over the years. On the slide fastener look to see if there is knots on the strings holding the fastener to the necklace. On the hook fastener, there should be an extension of beads so you can lengthen or shorten the piece around your neck. Clink the beads against your teeth to tell if they are plastic or glass. An unmarked piece with glass beads would be a real nice find and an older piece. Both of the necklaces or glass beads without any markings and by the fastener you know that the black beads are the oldest.

6. 
    

   On rhinestone or colored glass necklaces look for the hook and eye for older pieces. Later pieces would use a 0 hook.

7. 
    

   All vintage earrings had screw backs or clips. Screw backs were used up to the 1950's and then everything switched to clips. Screw backs will probably not have a markers mark on it, but most clips will. Both of these styles are hard to wear today compared to pierced earrings, but if you are serious about collecting and you run across a pair, you should by them, with the idea in mind to match them up with a necklace or trade them for something that matches in your collection.

[junkiejessie]

on 10/28/2009 Great information. I am just starting to sell jewelry and vintage jewelry on Etsy and need all the info I can find.
http://www.designsupplies.etsy.com

[VintageStacy]

on 12/4/2008 That was excellent information. Very valuable. I'll be sure to use your advice.
I too enjoy, love even, vintage jewelry and finding just the right piece. I have a bunch of my pieces listed at http://antiquejewelry.treasurestrike.com.

[gessie]

on 11/23/2008 Very informative information thanks, I can really use this.

[mommashopper]

on 11/1/2008 Unfortunately I checked my armoire and did not find one piece that could qualify as vintage. But, I know what to look for when I go to my local flea market. Thanks