How to Find the Best Pastries in Paris

Pastries are to Paris what hot dogs are to New York--they're everywhere, and each one is delicious. However, a few remarkable boulangeries dot the City of Lights and it's always helpful to know, in advance, where to park your calorie-counter (back at the hotel).

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

1. Decide, first, if you want to go it alone or hook up with a tour. For those who want a formal, organized spin around the foodie capital of the world, consider calling on a culinary touring outfit (see Resources below).

2. 
    
   Patisiere in Paris.

   Go your own way. If you forgo the tour route, start with what you know: your own arrondissement. Though most tourists prefer being near the Eiffel Tower, try being a little more imaginative and visit areas where the locals congregate, such as in the tenth arrondissement. Any boulangerie right off the Le Republique metro station is amazing. There just isn't a bad pastry to be found--simply follow your nose!Keep walking, though, up the hill for more sensual treats. It's important that you get out and walk, though, or you are apt to miss the sensual pleasures of this gastronomically generous city. If you get off at Le Republique station and head away from the statue, you'll go up a hill. You will walk past numerous cafes as well as bars, Internet sites, cheap "supermarches" (supermarkets) and funky costume shops.

3. Wend your way through the tenth, up a hill and catch the Metro train to the Marais.

4. 
    
   Le Loir dans la Théière. Photo by Claire Oldman

   Walk out of the Metro and head to 3 rue des Rosiers to Le Loir dans la Théière ("the doormouse in the teapot"), off the St. Paul metro stop. This cafe will offer a balm to the soul after a hard day pounding the touristed pavement: try a slice of cake and settle into a comfy leather chair. Its pastries are beyond the ordinary airport croissant fare all the way into the divine: peach clafouti, savory fig tarts and sky-high lemon meringue pie, to name a few culprits.

5. Ask the locals where the would find the best pastries. Try this: "Où est les meilleurs cafés o patisseries à Paris, s'il vous plait? ("Where are the best cafes or pastry and ice cream houses in Paris?"). Make sure you have a pad of paper and pencil on hand, though, because the French will be delighted that you've attempted to speak with them. They'll smile when they hear your American accent, but that doesn't mean they'll speak so slowly that you'll understand them. Unless you are fluent, smile and hand them the paper and pencil to write it down.

Tips & Warnings

• Bring sneakers to walk around the city. Not only will you discover your own amazing cafes this way, but the exercise will offset the effects of too many pastries!
• For world-renowned bread of all types (sourdough, apple, etc.) head to either the 6th or the fifteenth arrondissement and check out
• Poilane boulangerie--at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi in the sixth; and at 49 bld de Grenelle in the fifteenth arrondissement.
• Consider adding even more ambience to your experience by choosing any cafe at random along the Seine. From the Left Bank you'll have extraordinary views both of the river and the passersby. The sweet stuff between your lips will seem like an afterthought, you'll be so enraptured.
• Consider venturing into the Musée d'Orsay and enjoying a pastry at the fabulously huge and posh main dining room. You can see out the wide bay windows into Paris as you dine; alternatively, head up to the museum's cozy cafe, where you can watch the hands on the famous clock change as you munch your croissant!!
• Pastries are very caloric and fatty, so try not to eat more than one per day.

Resources

• Poilane bakery, Paris--one of the very finest in the world
• Organized gastronomical tour of Paris
• A pastry chef's guide to the finest patisseries in Paris
• Musée d'Orsay
• Claire Oldman

[1960texan]

on 12/3/2008 Great tips!

[LaurieW]

on 11/8/2008 This story should have had two photo credits:
Photos at the very top (pastry and coffee) and Step 4 (Le Loir dans la Théière): Claire Oldman (www.lolaisbeauty.blogspot.com);

Step 2 photo only: Laurie Wiegler

[LaurieW]

on 10/24/2008 I neglected to post this: Claire's photos are the first one and the last one. The URL is being added soon, linking to her site. The only photo I did was the second one (the patisserie). - Laurie W.