How to Insert a Front-Opening Corset Busk
The corset busk, perfect for flattening the stomach, was originally a flat piece of wood slipped down inside a pocket at the front of the corset. Later the busk developed into a two-sided metal closure stitched directly into the front panels. This allowed Victorian women to put corsets on without help. Inserting a front-opening busk can be a challenging task for the first-time corsetmaker. Modern sewing rarely requires the level of precision fitting and stitching that corset construction does, and never the sturdiness of busks and bones. While you are still learning to make your own corset, follow these busk insertion guidelines.
- Difficulty:
- Moderately Challenging
Instructions
Things You'll Need
- Corset pattern instructions
- Outer layer of corset front panels
- Lining layer of corset front panels
- Front-opening busk
- Sewing machine and equipment
- Zipper foot attachment
- Matching thread
- Heavy-duty machine needles
- Safety goggles
- Fabric pencil
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Inserting the Busk, Right Side
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1
Take the corset panel pieces that go on the right side of your body. You will use the part of the busk with hooks for this side.
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2
Line up the hook side of the busk with the center front, allowing for at least a 1/4-inch seam allowance at the top and bottom of the corset. Put the largest seam allowance at the bottom.
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3
Mark the wrong side of the lining layer with a fabric pencil at the top and bottom of the busk. Then mark the top and bottom placement of each of the hooks. This is where they will protrude through the seam.
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4
Stitch the outer layer panel to the lining layer panel, right sides together, at the center front. Leave a seam allowance as directed in your pattern instructions, and leave gaps in the stitching where the hooks should protrude. Backstitch or tie off all loose thread ends.
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5
Press the seam open and then fold the panel, pressing the center front flat so that all layers are together. Slip the busk into the seam to make sure the hooks fit through the openings.
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6
Remove the busk and topstitch next to the center front. Do not stitch over the hook gaps.
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7
Slip the busk back into the seam and pin it in place.
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8
Use a zipper foot to stitch all the way around the side, top and bottom of the busk as closely as possible.
Inserting the Busk, Left Side
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1
Take the corset panel pieces that go on the left side of the body. You will use the part of the busk with knobs for this side.
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2
Stitch the outer layer to the lining layer, right sides together, at the center front. Leave a seam allowance as directed in your pattern instructions.
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3
Press the seam open and then fold the panel, pressing the center front flat so that all layers are together.
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4
Line up this corset panel next to the corset panel with hooks, center fronts together and edges matching. Mark dots where the center of the hooks fall.
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5
Topstitch beside the center front on the knob side panel.
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6
Slip the busk between the outer layer and lining layer. Check the placement of your dots with the knobs. Remove the busk.
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7
Take an awl and make small holes at your dots, poking through the outer layer fabric only. Slip the busk back into the seam and push the knobs through the holes. Pin the busk in place.
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8
Stitch all the way around the side, top and bottom of the busk.
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1
Tips & Warnings
To determine busk length, measure the center front of the corset. Subtract 1/2 to 3/4-inch from this measurement. Round down to the nearest whole number. This is the busk length you should buy.
For gaping at the bottom of the busk, add hooks and eyes.
For gaping at the top of the busk, a tied ribbon can be inserted during the finishing stage of the corset.
A decorative outer fabric can be basted to the sturdy outer layer fabric at the start. Treat them as one layer.
Wear safety goggles when stitching next to the busk in case of needle breaking.
Make sure you have not inserted either busk piece upside down and backwards. The bulky part of the hook side should face the outer layer, and the knobs should lay closest to the center front.
