How to Insert Corset Grommets
One of the most attractive parts of a corset is the complex lacing that weaves down the back. Although the laces look delicate and feminine, they are held in place by hardware. Not all home sewers are accustomed to working with such hardware. In a modern corset, the laces are usually strung through metal grommets for sturdiness, though early corset styles can also include metal or hand-sewn eyelets. Installing corset grommets can take some work for a beginner, but the process becomes easier once you get comfortable handling hardware.
Things You'll Need
- Corset pattern instructions
- Outer layer of corset back panels
- Lining layer of corset back panels
- Sewing machine and equipment
- Matching thread
- Heavy-duty machine needles
- Iron
- Fabric pencil
- Awl
- 00 size Grommets
- 00 size Grommet punch
- Rubber hammer
Instructions
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Stitching the Panels
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1
Locate the back panels of the corset. Stitch each of the outer layer panels to the lining layer panels at the center back, right sides together. Use your corset pattern instructions to determine the size of the seam allowance. You should now have one right back panel and one left back panel.
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2
Press the seam open and then fold the panels, pressing them flat at the center back edge. Trim the seam allowance.
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3
Top stitch through all layers beside both center back edges. Stitch as close to the edges as you can.
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4
Create a boning channel by stitching through all layers 3/8 inch away from your top stitching. You will be able to fit a 1/4 inch spring steel bone in this channel. Do this on both corset panels.
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5
Stitch 1/2 inch away from the boning channel on both panels. You will be putting the grommets here.
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6
Stitch 3/8 inch away on both panels. Now you have a boning channel on either side of the grommet space.
Inserting the Grommets
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7
Mark the grommet placement on the lining side with a fabric pencil. Place the first marking 1 inch from the top of the corset, directly in the center between the two boning channels. All other grommet markings should be 3/4 inch apart, ending about 1 inch from the bottom of the corset.
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8
Create a hole at each of the markings with an awl. Make the holes big enough to push the eyelet side of a grommet through them.
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9
Insert the eyelet side of a grommet through a hole, working from the outer layer to the lining layer. The flat part of the eyelet side is what will show when you wear the corset.
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10
Take the 00 size grommet punch. Set the fabric on the die, lining side up, with the grommet you used in the center of the die.
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11
Place the grommet washer on top of the protruding eyelet. The convex side of the washer should face up.
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12
Place the long, thin punch part of your grommet punch through the grommet's center. Hit the punch firmly with the rubber hammer 3 or 4 times, until the eyelet side of the grommet folds smoothly over the washer.
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13
Remove the punch. Repeat the grommet setting steps for all grommet holes until they are finished.
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1
Tips & Warnings
If the awl does not make big enough holes, use a paintbrush handle or pencil to widen them.
If there are any rough edges left on the grommets, they need to be hammered again.
Do not use hole cutters. The broken fabric edges will cause the grommets to fall out when you lace up your corset.
Do not hammer the grommets so hard that they cut through the fabric.
Watch your fingers when hammering.