How to Paint Your Car With Rustoleum Paint
Painting your car with Rust-Oleum paint will give it a virtually impenetrable seal against rust. This paint is designed to prevent and resist rust, and when painted onto metal surfaces, can make it last years longer than it would with regular paint. Rust-Oleum can be found at any hardware store or paint shop.
Other People Are Reading
Things You'll Need
- Painter's tape
- Razor
- Drop cloth(s)
- Newspaper (optional)
- 120 grit sandpaper
- 320 grit sandpaper
- Soft sanding block
- Gray primer Rust-Oleum
- Rust-Oleum top coat
Instructions
-
-
1
Tape off all the chrome, rubber gaskets, runners and emblems you do not want to paint over, using painters tape and a razor.
-
2
Lay down a large drop cloth under the car, then tape newspaper, or drape another drop cloth over the tires, windshield and windows. Use tape to secure the cloth to the edges of the windows and prevent it from sliding.
-
-
3
Lightly sand down any rough edges or bondo spots with 120 grit sand paper. Then sand again using 320 grit sand paper and a soft sanding block. Sand until the area is very fine and smooth.
-
4
Spray on a primer layer of gray Rust-Oleum. Cover the entire area you are going to paint with one fairly thick coat. Apply a second layer if desired, for added protection. Use fast, smooth strokes, holding the spray can at least 8 inches from the metal. Continuously move the spray can to avoid dripping or paint spatters.
-
5
Let the area dry overnight in a temperature controlled area. It should be between 65 and 75 degrees.
-
6
Shake up several cans of Rust-Oleum for the top coat and keep them all nearby. Then apply the Rust-Oleum paint over the primer coat, using the same fast and smooth strokes. Work from top to bottom, applying the paint in even strokes, overlapping each stroke by about 3 inches. Make each pass in exactly the same manner for the smoothest application.
-
7
Let dry, and reapply a second coat if necessary.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Work in a well ventilated, but enclosed, area.
Resources
More Like This
Comments
View all 8 Comments-
ya I agree with terpodion, I have a 1962 ford falcon, and supposely using the rustoleum self etching primer on a classic car is ok, since on youtube there's a video of a muscle car using it, I did my frame on one side inside the fender, took off all the rust and sanded most of it to bare metal, then cleaned it with wool. then painted it without taking scratces out * oops * however it turned out pretty nice, still touchy and drying, might park it out tommorow to make it dry 100%, as long as it stops rust, doesn't chip, and stays on my frame for at least 2-3 years with it I'm fine, might paint black over it then gloss, still thinking-
-
No, I didn't! Oh, how funny!
-
kathy, did you notice the name of the author? :)
-
Thank you very much for this info. We might try doing this!
-
terpodion
Nov 17, 2008
I must add something to my previous comment; I don't know if this is a problem when using spray cans, I'm using a gravity feed sprayer, Rustoleum dries very slowly. As a result it is virtually impossible to sand between coats unless you wait an awfully long time for it to dry. Perhaps if you are in a desert climate and put the car outside to bake in the sun you might be able to get away with waiting as little as two days but I doubt it. When sanding, the paint will clog the paper and 'bunch up' more or less ruining the work. The only reason to sand is to get a smoother finish. It's not necessary for adhesion. This is a tricky process and if you want a really good looking job you might just want to prime with the rusty metal primer and get a cheapo color coat at Maaco or Earl Sheib.
