How to Get Amaryllis Lilies to Flower
The showy Amaryllis boasts large, exotic, lily-like flowers atop 1 or 2 straight, bare stems between 12 and 30 inches tall. The top of each stem will produce a cluster of between 2 to 12 trumpet-shaped blooms. Tall, bold strap-shaped leaves adorn the base of the plant, and are situated in two rows. Leaves appear in late summer or early fall in mild climates, and early spring in cold regions. By late spring, the leaves will have died off. The 2 to 4-inch bulbs then go dormant until late summer. Each flower measures 5 to 7 inches, with bloom color ranging from snowy white to deep red, including many fancy striped and multi-colored varieties. The more exotic the variety, the more you can expect to pay for these plants. However, since Amaryllis will bloom continuously for seven weeks or more at a time, most enthusiasts consider the price to be worth it.Amaryllis are the easiest of all flowering bulbs to bring to bloom, or “force,” which can be done even over an extended period of time, and either indoors or outside. It is possible to “force” the plant into a blooming cycle at any time you choose. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Pot a little bigger than the bulb (1 to 2 inches around the sides of the bulb)
- Compost potting soil that drains well
Instructions
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Forcing the Amaryllis to Bloom
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Place the base and roots of the bulb in lukewarm water for a few hours.
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Choose a pot which will be “cozy” for the bulb, not more than 1 to 2 inches larger than the bulb. Use a larger container for multiple bulbs, placing them close together.
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Fill the bottom of the pot with a high-quality potting compost mix. Spread the roots of the bulb out, and position it on top of the soil so that about 1/3 of the bulb remains above the soil line. Continue adding soil to the pot, until it is covered up to its neck. Take care not to injure any of the roots. Firmly press the soil all around the bulb, securing it into place.
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Water the pot thoroughly until the soil is uniformly moist. Place the potted bulb in a warm spot, exposing it to plenty of direct light. The temperature should be maintained at around 68 to 70F. Heat is essential to the development of stems.
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Water the potted bulb sparingly until the stem emerges in approximately three weeks. Increase the amount of water gradually as the leaves and buds appear. The stems will begin to grow rapidly now. In 5 to 12 weeks from planting, the Amaryllis will flower when the plant has attained its full growth. The time varies depending upon variety.
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Let's Do It Again
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Make the Amaryllis flower again after it has stopped blooming by cutting the old flowers from the stem. Cut the stem back at the top of the bulb when it begins to droop or sag.
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Fertilize and water as normal throughout the summer, for at least 5 to 6 months. This will give the leaves the opportunity to grow and develop fully.
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Cut the leaves back to about 2 inches above the top of the bulb when they begin to turn yellow, normally in early fall.
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Remove the bulb from the soil. Clean it and pat it dry. Place it in a dark, cool place where the temperature will be maintained at about 40 to 50F for at least six weeks. Your refrigerator vegetable crisper is ideal, provided that there are no apples in the refrigerator. Gases exuded by apples will sterilize the Amaryllis bulbs.
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Remove the bulbs from the refrigerator anytime after six weeks have passed. Plant the Amaryllis bulbs again roughly eight weeks before you want them to bloom.
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Tips & Warnings
Larger bulbs produce bigger blooms.
Amaryllis should only be forced in soil, which should contain plenty of sand and be fast-draining.
Plant more bulbs at two-week intervals for continuous blooming.
Your Amaryllis may not bloom this year if the plants were kept in a shady spot or if they have been neglected.
To avoid damage to any unplanted bulbs, always store them in a dark, cool place between 40 to 50 degrees.