How to Rock Climb at Indian Creek, Utah
Just one hour southwest of the mountain biking Mecca of Moab, Utah, lies Indian Creek, one of the most spectacular crack climbing areas in the world. With miles of buttress of Wingate that boast thousands of parallel sided cracks that range from the size of your fingertip to as wide as your body, “The Creek” draws climbers from all over the world. Indian Creek lies just outside of Canyonlands National Park and is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Camping areas are numerous and typically free, but the landscape is environmentally sensitive. With the increase in popularity of various types of activities, plus a longtime use as ranch lands, this area is becoming more used and abused. Thus, the BLM and other interest groups are recommending more tightly controlled access. However, it is likely that the majority of the climbing areas will remain open.
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Instructions
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Look for the most popular. Two of the most popular areas (ones to avoid over the weekend) are the Battle of the Bulge Buttress and Supercrack Buttress. Both offer a plethora of 5.10s and harder, though there are a smattering of 5.9s and maybe one or two 5.8s. Indian Creek is not an ideal spot for beginners. However, beginning crack climbers will likely have their best luck (and plenty of top ropes) at these two buttresses. At the Battle of the Bulge, try the route named for the crag, a steep 5.11 .75 Camalot size crack, or try the wide but wonderful “Jane Fonda’s Total Body Workout” (5.11b), the perfect #1 Camalot sized crack “3 Strikes You’re Out” (5.11), or some of the more difficult routes, such as the beautiful “Swedin-Ringle” (5.12-) or the famous “Ruby’s Café” (5.13-). The most popular route at Supercrack Buttress is the #2 Camalot sized “Incredible Hand Crack” (5.10c) which is one of the most perfect cracks in existence. Also try “Coyne Crack” (5.12a), “Fingers in a Lightsocket” (5.11+) and the wide, somewhat ugly, but exciting “Gorilla” (5.10).
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Try some that are more out of the way. Other popular buttresses include the Cat Wall, which has nearly 50 routes with names such as “Deseret Moon” (5.11), “Johnny Cat” (5.11+), “King Cat” (5.11+), “Cat Burglar” (5.12) and “Abbienormal” (5.13).; Pistol Whipped wall, home to “Have a Heart Donna” and “Spaghetti Western,” both 5.11+s; and the Reservoir Wall, which stays shaded for a good part of the day and is home to fantastic “Excuse Station” (5.11) and the equally marvelous “Marvelous!” (5.12). Just be aware that not all of this wall is open to climbers--if you can see the small lake that is next to the road, you are on private property.
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Climb some towers. Indian Creek isn’t just land of the 100-foot perfect cracks; it’s also home to some towers, including the Bridger Jacks. You can access these formations by turning west onto Beef Basin Road. The road is more like a washboard than a road, so watch out if you’re car is a low rider. Quality climbs there include: “Sacred Space,” a steep two pitch 5.11 that ascends the King of Pain formation; and “Learning to Crawl,” a 5.11 that is uncharacteristic for the area because it has a lot of face climbing. It is on the tower furthest to the left that looks like a thumb.
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Find camping and amenities. There is one established paid camp ground with an outhouse a few miles from the main climbing area. However, most climbers who visit Indian Creek camp for free with few amenities (please do not leave your toilet paper lying around). The main camping area is by the Bridger Jacks. As mentioned above, the Bridger Jacks can be reached by Beef Basin Road. Camp sites are obvious and everywhere. Please don’t make new fire rings or new campsites. There is a toilet at the turn off for the Bridger Jacks. If you don’t use it, you must pack out your own waste. As reported on the Friends Of Indian Creek Web site (see Resources), "Restop" dispensers will provide campers with human waste disposal bags for the climbing season. These are an environmentally friendly and sanitary bag that can be disposed of in any trash container. A donation of $2 per bag is suggested.
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Follow directions. From Moab, take US 191 south toward Monticello. Turn right on SH 211, which also has a sign for Canyonlands. Pass Newspaper Rock after a few miles, and a few miles later you will be at Indian Creek Canyon.
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Tips & Warnings
Make sure to bring a ton of water with you, as well as all the food and supplies you will need for however long you are staying. There are no grocery stores nearby. The closest (and cheapest) place to get a shower is at the private campground close to the entrance of Canyonlands or in Moab at the youth hostel.
Indian Creek is not a friendly area for beginners. The cracks are steep and hard. It's a good idea for both beginner and advanced climbers to use tape on their hands for protection as the rock is abrasive.
