How to Tour California's Historic Highway 395

Historic Highway 395 starts in southern California's high desert. It skirts the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada mountain range through the desolate beauty of the Owens Valley and then climbs the slopes of the Sierras through one of the few mountain passes that remains open all year. After topping the mountain range, it descends into Nevada, passing through Carson City, the smallest state capital in the country and then on into Reno, "the biggest little city in the world." Along the way, jumping off points include the highest peak in the continental United States, the oldest living tree in the world, ideal hunting and fishing spots, a well-preserved ghost town and two world-class ski resorts.

Instructions

1. Head north on Highway 395, passing through parts of the forbidding Mojave Desert. Enter the long Owen Valley with the Sierra Nevada range on the left and the lazy, winding Owens River on the right. Near Independence, you'll see the remains of the gates of Manzanar, the relocation camp that housed thousands of Japanese-Americans interned there during World War II. Stop at the museum at Manzanar to learn more about this tragic period and get a feel for the life of the camp for those who were forced to make it their home.

2. Look for the famous Alabama Hills off to the left as you approach the small town of Lone Pine. These barren, folded hills have been a favorite location for countless western movies for generations. Lone Pine is the home of the newly constructed Lone Pine Museum of Film History, which houses film memorabilia, props and viewings of many of the films shot in the area. Most major western film stars have galloped through the Alabama Hills at one time or another, and you'll probably recognize many of the locations from some of your favorite movies.

3. Gaze west up beyond the hills to the highest peak in the continental United States, Mount Whitney. At a height of 14,496 feet, this jagged, rugged peak is often ringed with snow, even in the early summer months. You can detour off the highway at Lone Pine, and drive to the base of the mountain. Thousands of tourists from around the world climb to the top of the peak each year on the well marked trail. If you're not inclined to make the drive and the climb, you can enjoy a meal with a view at the Mt. Whitney Restaurant in Lone Pine or the play golf on the Mount Whitney Golf Course at the edge of town, which offers a view of the mountain from nearly every hole.

4. Try to spot the Tule elk herds which regularly feed in the irrigated fields between Independence and Big Pine. Once endangered, these elk have made a remarkable come back in recent years, thanks to the conservation efforts of valley residents and other environmental groups. Stop to take pictures at the designated parking areas along the highway.

5. Take Route 168 out of Big Pine for a 24-mile trip to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, home of the world's oldest living tree, Methuselah, estimated to be almost 5,000 years old. The U.S. Forest Service maintains this preserve, and there is a small admission fee to enter the area for guided tours of the forest. On the 24-mile trip, you'll climb more than 6,000 feet in elevation to reach the preserve.

6. Stop in Bishop, the largest town in the Owens Valley. It's the home of the Mule Days celebration in early June, featuring mule races and a rodeo. Bishop also bills itself as "the Gateway to the Sierras." Some of the best hiking, hunting and fishing on the eastern Sierra slope is accessible from Bishop. For some of the best bread in the world, head to Erick Shat's Bakery in Bishop. They have been making their famous sheepherder's bread without preservatives there since the 1930s, and they also serve sandwiches and full meals.

7. Begin the climb into the Sierras out of Bishop and head toward Mammoth Mountain, a world class mountain village and ski resort. Past Mammoth, you'll come to another famous resort, the June Lakes Loop and Ski area. At the town of Lee Vining, you'll see one of the world's strangest lakes, Mono Lake. The alkaline water of the lake produces eerie and spectacular "tufa towers and sculptures" along the shore formed of calcium carbonate piled up by the winds and the interaction of mineral rich springs and the alkaline lake water.

8. Explore a genuine ghost town. Seven miles south of Bridgeport, take the marked turnoff to head to Bodie, a complete and genuine ghost town sitting alone in the scrub. The first several miles of the turnoff is paved road, but it's a dirt road for the last 3 miles into the historic, deserted gold mining town. There is a small admission fee to tour the town. Return along the same route back to highway 395 and continue over the range into Nevada's capital, Carson City and on into Reno.

Tips & Warnings

• Notice the large, mostly dry bed of Owens Lake on the right as you drive along Highway 395. The huge lake was once navigable, with a number of business lining its shores and a ferryboat that regularly crossed from one side to the other. The famous water wars of the early 20th century helped dry up the lake. William Mulholland and other Los Angeles city fathers bought up rights to the water in the Owen River and diverted south to L.A., making development of modern Los Angeles possible. It's still a sore spot for locals in the Owens Valley. Recent agreements have diverted water back to the valley, and the lake is slowly taking shape again.