How to Tile a Shower Floor

Tiling, the art your feet will love. From Pythagoras to to pentagons, the art of laying solid tiling flooring is explained. The following method works best with square tiles, but can be applied to small hexagonal tiles.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Tiles of uniform or pre-determined sizes
• String or Chalk Chord/Line
• Tape Measure
• Tile Adhesive
• Trowel/Float
• Tile Spacers
• Grout
• Grout Float
• Tile cutting saw (ask at your hardware store)

1. Ensure the surface you are working with is smooth and level. If there are imperfections in the level of floor surfaces, deep scratches, cuts, or gouges, consult your local hardware store for the best compound to fill and level out the imperfections in your floor.

2. Use the level to ensure that your floor area is smooth and even in any given area. Any serious imperfections in an area can cause an uneven surface and cracking of tiles.

3. 
   An 8x8 bathroom surface

   Measure the length and width of your shower room. Multiply the length by the width. This is the area (or square footage) of your room. As an example: if the measurements are 8 feet by 8 feet, the area is 64 square feet.

4. 
   4 x 4 quandrants

   Measure out marks for the halfway point in your length and the halfway point in your width. In an 8 foot long showerroom, the marks will be located at 4 feet in either direction, making four squares of 16 square feet each. (4 x 4 = 16).

5. Use one chalk line lengthwise and one across the width to clearly mark your four quadrants, or sections. This will result in a + shape where the two lines meet. This is your center point.

6. Tiles will be lain out individually in the 4 quadrants. This will create an even 90 degree angle in the center of the floor. Begin laying tiles in the quadrant furthest from the door, always ensuring you will not have to walk on or move over the fresh tile.

7. 
   found at: http://www.tileswithstyle.com/images/AA_hex_shower_closeup.jpg

   If using a hexagonal pattern to create a "flower look" begin the first flower with the center tile exactly in the middle of the four quadrants. Then build the pattern into each of the four quadrants.

8. Practice laying the tiles without any adhesive. Leave space between tiles to accommodate for spacers- it is not necessary to use them on the practice.
   This will help to reveal any potential problems such as an uneven surface, as well as where tiles will have to be cut to avoid obstacles such as a sink or toilet.

9. 
   Tiles cut to fit a fixture

   For obstacles and ill-fit corners, tiles may be cut to fit the space. Using one tile to cut into sections to fill gaps near walls helps to save on space. Create a special tile around a fixture (toilet, tub, sink) while ensuring its square uncut ends fit uniformly into your pattern.
   If possible use one tile to accommodate small obstacles like pipes by cutting a hole in your tile and sliding it over the end of the pipe.

10. Remove all practice tiles and start back at your original quadrant, furthest from the door. Lay enough adhesive so you can lay several tiles, but keep your work area small. Follow the same layout you did during your rehearsal attempt to avoid unseen complications.

11. Prepare your adhesive. Ceramics relies on 'scoring' for adhesion. Scoring is the act of providing texture to the adhesive. Trowels will have a scoring section (small nubs or tabs) on them with which you should score the adhesive in straight lines. Drag this rough surface through the adhesive. Do not score too deep, but ensure that you have proper traction for the tiles.

12. Tile the floor using the adhesive. Place the spacers between tiles ensuring a proper fit. Use a spacer between every tile.
    Avoid twisting, excessive sliding, and uneven tile levels at all times. Use level to ensure tiles are even. Excess adhesive can be employed to level a tile surface.

13. Important- If you are unsure about laying tile around obstacles, it may be best to allow the full square tiles to dry overnight or for two days and set the unique tiles after the main surface is dry.

14. Work through all four quadrants. Remove spacers once an area is complete so they do not set into the adhesive. Avoid "tiling in" spacers by planning how to remove them while tiling without disturbing the fresh tiles.

15. Allow the adhesive to dry (cure) overnight or two days depending on amount of adhesive used.

16. Grouting is also done in quadrants. Prepare the grout for application and follow the same pattern employed in laying the tile.

17. Using the grouting float, lay the grout between the tiles. It is recommended to use a diagonal motion to fill the space between tiles.
    This allows for maximum application with the least excess grout on the tile.

18. Use the rubber float to remove all excess grout from the surface of the tile. Inevitably, there will be a small layer of grout left after using the rubber float.

19. Use a sponge to remove the grout from the tile while it is still wet.

20. Complete all four quadrants in this manner, following your original pattern.

21. Allow upwards of a week for the grout to set into the tile. Clean the tiles using a mop or sponge.

22. Use a sealer to seal your grout to prevent grime, dirt, and liquid from entering seams. This will preserve your tile.

Tips & Warnings

• Ensure your floor is smooth and even. Ensure adjacent tiles are even with one another.
• Use chalk lines to create a center which will meet at an even 90 degree angle.
• Score your adhesive for proper traction against the tile.
• Do not disturb setting tile by planning a tile route.
• Wipe excess grout off tile face using rubber grout float.
• Uneven tiles will crack.
• Use proper safety equipment when cutting tiles.
• Do not use putty knife or other scraping utensil to remove excess grout.

[starlet67]

on 5/25/2009 Great tips and warnings for DIY!5*