How to Rock Climb at Eldorado Canyon State Park, Colorado
Just a few miles south of Boulder, Colorado, tucked away in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, lies Eldorado Canyon State Park, a haven for hikers, picnic lovers and rock climbers. “Eldo’s” walls jut 600 to 800 feet straight up out of a windy canyon that is also home to the raging, trout filled South Boulder Creek. Eldo is home to more than 500 routes, most of which are in the “traditional” style, which means climbers place their own equipment into fissures in the rock. However, there are also a handful of excellent “sport” routes, on which climbers clip pre-placed bolts. Climbers will find everything from full-on cracks, dihedrals and roofs to dicey faces and crimpy holds. Many of the popular routes are slippery because people have been climbing in Eldo for more than 50 years.The majority of the routes are on Fountain Sandstone. Popular walls include (but are not limited to) the Bastille, Wind Ridge, the Redgarden Wall, the West Ridge and Rincon Wall.
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Things You'll Need
- Climbing shoes
- Climbing equipment
- $6 for a day pass or $60 for an annual pass
Instructions
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The Bastille is the most easily accessible 350-foot wall and is a perfect option during hot, summer afternoons because its main face is in the shade for most of the day. It also has an array of moderate to difficult climbs that are good for intermediate to advanced climbers. The wall is also home to excellent 5.9s, such as “Hair City,” “Werksupp” and the “West Buttress,” as well as more difficult routes like “Blind Faith” (5.10a), “Outer Space” (5.10c), “Sunset Boulevard” (5.11b/c), and the difficult test pieces, “Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12c/d) and “Your Mother" (5.12d).
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The Redgarden Wall, which is directly across from the Bastille, is Eldo’s biggest cliff. It sports several summits and is home to some of the area’s most classic climbs. The five-pitch route, the “Naked Edge,” is one of the most popular routes in the 5.11- range in all of Colorado. It takes the obvious and spectacular line up the main arête of Tower Two of the Redgarden Wall. It can be approached by the equally classic, two-pitch 5.8+, “Touch and Go.” Tower Two is also home to the wildly exciting 5.11 “Jules Verne” and the scary, 5.10b traverse known as “Rosy Crucifixion.” Other climbs on the Regarden Wall that have three to four stars include: “Swanson’s Arete” (5.5), “Rewritten” (5.7), the “Green Spur” (5.9) and Grandmother’s Challenge” (5.10c), all of which are on the “Lumpe to the top” area; “Ruper” (5.8), “The Grand Giraffe” (5.10a), “Super Slab” (5.10d) and “Doub-Griffith” (5.11c), all of which are in the Tower One area.
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The South Face of the Wind Tower is the most popular area for beginner to novice climbers, and is home to some really beautiful moderate routes. Plan on doing just the first two pitches of each route because the rock becomes more suspect closer to the top. You can either rappel or walk off the ledge that splits the wall two-thirds the way up. The most popular routes are “Wind Ridge” (5.8, with just one move of 5.8), “Calypso” (5.6) and “Reggae” (5.8). There are also more difficult routes on this formation.
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The West Ridge and Rincon Wall offer excellent opportunities throughout the year, and are especially good when the weather gets colder. In fact, you can climb at these two areas throughout the winter as long as the wind isn’t blowing too hard and the sun is shining. If you do climb in the winter, be sure to put some chemical hand warmers in your chalk bag because though the sun will warm you enough to wear T-shirts, the rock is still frigid. Some of the best routes include: “Chianti” (5.8), “Purple Haze” (5.9), “Long John Wall” (5.8), “Hand Crack” (5.10b), “Prince of Darkness” (5.11a), “Pony Express” (5.11c), and “French Fry” (5.12b) and “The Reckoning” (5.12d). “Rincon” also sports a plethora of super classic climbs, including its namesake, a fantastic four-pitch 5.11a and the very popular (it often has crowds of people waiting to climb it) “Center Route,” a perfect 5.11a/b finger/hand crack that leads to a beautiful 5.10b crack and a juggy 5.8+ face that leads through a chossy band to a finish slab. Other excellent routes include: “Over the Hill,” a perfect 5.10b and “The Evictor,” a 5.12 c/d test piece that all the greatest locals climb.
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Get there. From Denver: Go north on I-25 to US 36 (about five miles). Take the McCaslin Blvd. exit toward CO 170 W/Superior/Louisville. Follow CO 170 as it curves around and then heads west. Drive four miles, cross CO Hwy 93, and then drive three more miles to the tiny, dusty town of Eldorado Springs. Or, go west on I-70 to the town of Golden, and take 6th Ave., which turns into CO Hwy 93. Take that for 13.5 miles, and then take a left onto Eldorado Springs Dr. Go through town, past the pool and into the park. From Boulder: Take CO Hwy 93 south (also called Broadway). Take a right at the first stop light after leaving Boulder onto Eldorado Springs Dr.
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Tips & Warnings
There is a nice market that sells a variety of healthy sandwiches, snacks and coffee drinks at the junction of CO Hwy 93 and Eldorado Springs Dr. You can also fill your water up at the artesian well, which is across a bridge on the right (north) side of the road just before you enter the park.
The climbing in Eldorado Canyon is world class, and most of the rock is superb. However, there are areas of poor quality rock, and it is a good idea to be well versed in gear placement as protection can be sparse and tricky to place. A number of guidebooks exist, but good route finding skills are essential if you want to have a good time in this area. Often, routes and descents aren’t straightforward.
Additionally, the “Bastille” crack is a beautiful 5.7 that takes the main crack system up the middle of the north-facing wall of the Bastille formation. It is the easiest route on the wall and is one of the most popular routes in the canyon. It almost always has a line of people waiting to climb it, so be sure to get to the crag early. Also, bring a helmet because there will likely be numerous people above you.
