How to Grow Peach Trees in Texas

Despite their Chinese origins, peaches grow well throughout the entire southern United States. Texas, even with its diverse climate zones, is no exception. Since there are over 50 varieties of peaches, the Texas gardener can enjoy fresh peach pies and daiquiris whether she lives in Corpus Christi or Amarillo. She need only visit the local garden center for a variety best suited to her area.

Things You'll Need

• Soil amendment
• Fertlizer
• Pruning shears
• Chemical controls

Instructions

1. 

   Choose a variety of peach tree that is compatible with your climate zone. Gardeners that reside north of San Antonio and Austin should pick a late spring bloomer that needs 750 or more chill hours per year. These varieties include the Dixiland, Cresthaven, Reliance, Redskin, Dixired, Garnet Beauty, Contender, Springold, Rio Oso Gem and Madison. Texans that live further south in Houston, Galveston or Brownsville should plant trees that need less than 650 chill hours per year. These gardeners will have the best luck with a variety such as the Rio Grande, Flordaprince, Bonanza II, Flordaglo, Flordaking, Southern Rose, Texstar, Tropic Snow or Tropic Sweet.

2. 

   Pick a spot in the yard where your tree will flourish. North Texans should bear in mind that the heavy winter air collects in low spots and can damage even a cold-tolerant tree. If winter temperatures ever dip below 28 degrees F in your area, even briefly, plant your peach tree on a hill or slope. Gardeners with flat landscapes should build up a planting mound for the tree. Peaches can grow up to 15 feet high and wide, so give them ample space from other plantings. To fruit well, plant in a location that receives a full day's sun. Give them well drained soil amended with plenty of organic matter.

3. 

   Water and feed regularly. Peaches need lots of water, especially during the fruit development period. Rain may be sufficient in the fall and winter but in drought prone Texas, growers must haul out the hose every day during spring and summer. Gardeners that live in the driest parts of the state will need to keep a very close eye on the tree. Buy a 10-10-10 fertilizer, or one of the types developed specifically for peach trees. Feed twice per year in early and mid-spring. Give a 1-year-old tree 1/2 lb. of fertilizer at each feeding. Trees that are 2 or 3 years old should receive 3/4 lbs. After the tree begins to fruit, at about 4 years of age, it will need 1 lb. of fertilizer that year and every year thereafter. If you notice a decline in production, increase fertilizer for older trees to 2 lbs. per feeding.

4. 

   Prune every winter to keep the tree fruiting. Pruning is one the most essential chores in peach tree production. If you buy a young, bare root tree with no branches, cut it so that it stands no more than 2½ feet tall. After the new branches form, cut all but three of the sturdiest ones. They should be evenly spaced apart and 18 to 32 inches from the ground. Until the tree reaches 3 years of age, cut the three main branches back by one-third each winter. During the fourth winter and each winter thereafter, remove any crowded branches, base suckers and shoots. Keep the center of the tree open to allow sunlight to penetrate each part of the tree. Trees should be kept to a height of 10 to 12 feet.

5. 

   Pay close attention to pests. Peaches are very susceptible to many pests and diseases. Gardeners who don't like to use chemicals may want to consider a different fruit tree. Peach leaf curl, peach scab and brown rot are all common afflictions. Remove any diseased portions of the tree and spray with lime sulfur, fixed copper or Daconil. Apply the spray once after the leaves drop and one more just before they start to come back. Peach tree borers are the most serious of the pests that can attack your tree. They form holes at the base of the trunk that are filled with a gooey substance. In Texas, they can appear anywhere from April to October. If you find yourself with a peach tree borer problem, poke wires into the holes to kill the larvae. This method is often sufficient. More severe controls include Sevin, Dursban and Thiodan.