How to Select a Sewing Machine Needle for Woven Fabrics

Treat your latest sewing project with the utmost care by selecting the correct size needle. Woven fabrics have different weaves and densities, and there's a needle for every type. The wrong needle can result in a clogged machine, skipped stitches, broken threads and other headaches.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Woven fabric
• Variety pack of standard or universal point machine sewing needles

1. Purchase a variety pack of needles. Make certain that the needles are either standard or universal point, even if the fabric has a bit of stretch. Ballpoint needles, with rounded tips, won't break through the tight fibers of a woven fabric.

2. Select the narrowest possible needle for the fabric type. Woven fabrics often show scarring, or tiny perforations, if the sewing needle is too large. A broken thread in the textile can also create a pull or run, which ruins the finish of the fabric.

3. Use this for reference to decipher needle sizing: 9 to 11 needles work for chiffons and lightweights; 11 to 14 needles for broadcloth and shirting; 14 to 16 for heavy fabrics like woolens and thin denim; and 16 to 18 for thick, dense fabrics.

4. Put the needle in the machine and test sew a section of fabric to make certain that stitches are even. If they're not, adjust the thread tension, or try another size needle.

Tips & Warnings

• For denim and leather, use specialty needles. Denim is very densely woven and may require a thicker thread, while leather needs a specially-shaped needle that can punch through animal hide. These needles come in a smaller range of sizes and may cost a slight bit more than standard needles.
• For topstitching, buy a topstitch needle. It has a bigger eye than a standard needle, and can accommodate thicker topstitch threads.
• Buy standard needles even if the woven has some stretch. If in doubt as to whether a fabric is a woven or knit, ask store personnel for assistance.