How to Cast Metal Bullets

Before assembly lines were invented, a gunsmith made each gun as a unique and separate entity. Often bullets would fit a gun made by one gunsmith but not another, though the guns may have been similar. It is for that reason that gunsmiths also sold bullet molds corresponding to each weapon they made. It was common for a hunter or a soldier to spend his off time in the evening casting lead bullets for his rifle. Nowadays, people don't often need to cast their own bullets unless they are using an antique black-powder gun to which no modern-day caliber corresponds, or they are reloading. Reloading is a term used by hunters, sportsmen and other people who use a lot of ammunition. By reusing their bullet casings and casting new bullets, they save money rather than just buying new ammunition. This guide will explain how to cast your own metal bullets.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Solid lead
• Metal skimmer
• Bullet mold
• Matches
• Mold lubricant
• Self-heating crucible
• Thick cotton cloth
• Lead ladle
• Plastic bag
• Liquid alox
• Tongs
• Bullet shaper
• Matches
• Safety goggles
• Slag bucket

1. Begin by assembling all your materials in an open, well-ventilated workspace. Turn on your crucible, which should look like a large iron pot with a square base, and place in a few pieces of lead. They are commonly sold in ingots.

2. Put on your safety goggles and prepare your mold while the lead is melting. Use a fire-resistant lubricant on the hinges of your mold as it will become very stiff after only a few uses. Also you should “fire” the mold. To do this, strike a match and play the flame across all the interior surfaces of the mold. This is to create a layer of carbon, which will prevent the bullet from sticking to the inside of the mold as well as to allow the hot metal to distribute evenly throughout the inside of the mold.

3. Use your skimmer to take all the impurities off of the surface of the molten metal in the crucible. These are the accumulated deposits of dirt, sediment and debris that build up on the outsides of solid metal. You don’t want these in your bullets. Place the debris in your slag bucket, a simple metal waste container.

4. Lock your mold shut and open the intake valve on the top. Hold it over the crucible for a minute or two to allow the mold to heat. By doing this you decrease the likelihood that your molten metal will crystallize and fracture when poured inside the mold. Such things happen when hot metal is cooled too rapidly or introduced to objects of a significantly lower temperature. Avoid this by warming the mold.

5. Use your ladle to scoop up some of the metal from the crucible and pour it into the open mouth of the mold. Gently shake the mold from side to side to get any air bubbles inside to rise to the top and exit. You may need to pour more lead in to fill the empty spaces. Don’t worry about lead filling the intake mouth, this can be remedied later.

6. Allow the mold to cool for 20 minutes. Sharply snap the jaws of the mold open to release the bullet and prevent it from sticking. Let the bullet fall onto your cloth. As the metal is still hot and soft, if the bullet were to strike against a hard surface it would likely deform. That’s why you should drop the bullet on a cushion.

7. Use your tongs to lift the bullet as it is probably still too hot to touch. Place it into the jaws of your bullet shaper. This is a device that’s a cross between a file and a pair of metal clippers. Fit the bullet into place and snap it open and closed several times to remove any excess metal from the exterior of the bullet.

8. Finish casting your bullet by placing it into a plastic bag. Squirt in a little liquid alox. This is a lubricant specifically designed for ammunition. Close the bag and work the bullet around to coat it completely. With this done, the bullet is now ready to be placed in an enclosed cartridge or loaded into a black-powder weapon.

Tips & Warnings

• Casting bullets can be very dangerous. It is important to follow these instructions to avoid mishap. Never leave liquids or drinks around your bullet-casting work area or station. When hot lead is introduced to liquid of even moderate temperature, it sizzles and pops, sending hot lead droplets flying in every direction. This is a serious burn hazard.
• Remember to wash your hands and arms thoroughly after casting bullets. The lead they are made from is toxic, and even the smallest amounts can cause lead poisoning if absorbed through the skin.
• When lead melts it produces fumes, but they are not dangerous to you provided you work in a well-ventilated area. This combined with the fire-hazard liquid-hot metal presents means you should only ever cast bullets outdoors.

Resources

• Site selling high-quality bullet molds and reloading paraphernalia