How to Photograph in Black and White Infrared

If you think it's difficult to find black and white film, or if you think it's difficult to find a good, reliable lab to process your black and white film, multiply those headaches by at least 100 and you're beginning to approach some of the difficulties of working with black and white infrared film. While there are a few different types of black and white infrared film, the best of the best is generally acknowledged to be the Kodak HIE (High-Speed Infrared) film. Infrared film poses many challenges, from the way it must be handled, to what types of cameras it can be loaded into, and the delicate manner in which it must be specially hand processed--plus a lot of details along the way that can affect how your infrared shots turn out. On the plus side, if you are a real photographer who is consumed with a curiosity of how film works and a burning desire to stretch the edges of the photographic envelope, then taking pictures with infrared film can be a dream come true.

Things You'll Need

• Old-fashioned 35mm camera
• Kodak HIE infrared film
• Changing bag
• Dark room
• Normal black and white developing chemicals

Instructions

1. Purchase a roll of Kodak HIE film. This is not an easy film to find. If you cannot find it locally then check online. Keep the film in its black container until it is time to load it into your camera. Remember, merely keeping visible light from this film is not enough--infrared light can penetrate many types of cloth and even many darkrooms are not light-proof enough for infrared film.

2. Look at the back of your camera. Most cameras have a plastic "window" which allows you to see what type of film you are using. This window seals well enough to prevent visible light from reaching the film inside, but infrared light can penetrate around the edges of this window. Cover the window with a square of aluminum foil held on with electrical tape.

3. Open your camera a look at the pressure plate, the metal or plastic plate across which your film will be pulled. Many cameras have a bumpy pressure plate. That is all right for normal film, but the bumps can show up on infrared film. If your camera has a bumpy pressure plate find another camera. Also, if there is a tiny slit in your pressure plate then your camera may be equipped to burn an infrared date onto your film. This tiny amount of infrared light can fog your infrared film. Older cameras do not have this infrared dating feature. Also, older cameras do not have an infrared light for counting sprocket holes in order to properly advance modern film. Most newer 35mm cameras have this infrared counting feature which can fog infrared film. Again, use an older camera.

4. Load your camera inside a changing bag inside your darkroom. This is not a joke. Infrared light can seep around zippers, seams and wrist holes in a changing bag and even most darkrooms allow in a tiny bit of infrared light. Often enough to slightly fog your film before you even shoot your first image. Loading your film in your darkroom within the added safety of a changing bag should offer sufficient protection from stray infrared contamination.

5. Focusing for infrared film is more difficult than focusing for normal film. Many lenses have a special infrared focusing scale. Check your lens specs to see if your lens has an infrared scale. Since each lens manufacturer has a slightly different way of calibrating the infrared focus it will be necessary for you to read your lens manual or consult with your lens manufacturer or an experienced camera authority.

6. Process your film yourself if possible. Most labs won't process infrared film, and unless your lab is experienced with infrared film it is unlikely you'll get back anything but a fogged mess. Most modern film processing equipment uses infrared light for many of its processes and even many lab workers routinely wear helmets with infrared lights to help them see in the dark. Also, most labs are simply not dark enough to keep out all stray infrared light. If processing infrared film yourself put film on reels inside a changing bag inside your darkroom. Most plastic tanks are OK for infrared film, but some tanks can leak infrared light. If possible use stainless steel reels in developing. If using plastic reels dry them carefully with a hairdryer before loading the film onto the reels as any moisture on the plastic reels can cause problems. Develop using standard black and white film developing chemicals and times.

Tips & Warnings

• When in doubt, err on the side of caution. Infrared light is invisible to human eyes and so we don't think about all of its sources. Before working with infrared film you need to train yourself to think differently about "light" and cover all potential infrared leaks before removing the film from its factory-sealed container. Glow-in-the-dark packaging labels and even your glow-in-the-dark watch face can fog infrared film.