How to Choose an Ice Axe

A proper ice axe is an essential part of ice climbing and hiking in cold areas. Hiking or ice climbing without an ice axe can be very dangerous, and selecting the proper ice axe is vital to safety while climbing. There are a wide variety of axes to choose from, so carrying the proper tool takes a bit of research and time.

Things You'll Need

• List of Climbing Needs
• Knowledge of Ice Climbing

Instructions

How to Choose an Ice Axe

1. Create a list of your ice climbing or hiking needs. The type of ice axe you choose will be determined by what you will be doing while out on the trail, so make sure you compile a set of all the essential features that your ice axe must have.

2. Choose the type of ice axe you need based off of your climbing or hiking needs. Ice axes typically come in three varieties: the walking axe, basically used for general hiking; the mountaineering axe, used for more difficult climbing and hiking; and the technical axe, used for the most precise and difficult climbing needs. Look at your overall climbing needs to find a style that works best for you. The ABC’s of Mountaineering offers an informative listing of what different styles and types of axes would be most appropriate for your needs.

3. Determine whether you need a short ice axe or a long ice axe. Short axes are more compact and easy to carry, while long axes can be slightly cumbersome and difficult to easily carry on the trail. A hiker with a short reach can benefit most from a longer axe while someone with longer arms can make best use of a short ice axe.

4. Visit an outdoor supply store to test out various axes. Try ones with a holding loop and one without to see what style you prefer. You can look over and get a feel for a large number of axes before you decide what style you need to buy. Take a pair of gloves with you when you test out the axes, as you will most likely be wearing your gloves while hiking.

5. Review the ratings on various axes as you make your decision. Basic, or b-rated, ice axes are primarily used for simple hiking and climbing needs. Technical, or t-related axes are grated for much heavier use and are typically at least 30% stronger than basic ice axes. Be sure you choose the appropriate grade of axe so that you remain safe and get the most use out of your new ice axe.

Tips & Warnings

• Make sure that you buy a grade of axe appropriate for your needs. Do not buy a light, basic axe if you intend to do heavy ice climbing and hiking.

• Look at numerous ice axes before making your choice. The ice axe you buy needs to be easy to carry and fit your hands well, so check a variety before making your purchase.

• Do not buy an ice axe without being able to try them out. You need to make sure you are buying a quality tool and examining them in person is the best way to do this.

Resources

• The ABCs of Mountaineering