Things You'll Need:
- Chop saw
- Rotary saw
- Power drill/screwdriver
- Staple Gun
- Level
- Measuring Tape
- 8 6-foot 2x4s (for uprights)
- 6 5-foot 2x4s (for back and front crossbeams)
- 6 3-foot 2x4s (for side crossbeams)
- 1 5-foot, 8-inch 2x4 (front wall middle upright)
- 1 31-inch 2x4 (front wall crossbeam)
- 2 8x4 Sheets of Showerboard (for back wall)
- 2 5-foot 1x3s (for door uprights)
- 3 26-inch 1x3s (for door crossbeams)
- 1 5-foot, 3-foot sheet of ¾” plywood (for floor)
- 2 5-foot 1x3s for floor supports on back and front
- 3 3-foot 1x3s for floor supports on sides and middle
- 1 5-foot, 3-foot sheet of heavy duty plastic to go under the floor
- 2 rolls of 3-foot, 15-foot black plastic garden mesh (for sides)
- 2 rolls of metal hardware cloth (for ceiling)
- 9 angle plates (for corner uprights)
- 30 rigid tie angle fasteners
- 24 mending plates
- 3 or 4 boxes of strong drive low profile screws
- 1 box construction staples
- 2 brass hinges
- 2 brass bolt locks
- 1 brass door handle
- 5 caster wheels
- 1 can stain
- 2 cans Hi-Gloss water-based polyurethane
- 2 Paintbrushes (one for stain one for poly)
- Tackrag (to clean frame before finishing)
- Paper towels (for wiping down after staining)
- Rubber gloves
- 1 Double-edged finishing strip (to fasten the 2 showerboard edges together)
- 2 Single-edged finishing strips (to finish off the showerboard edges)
- Several 3-inch screws (for added stability when joining crossbeams to uprights)
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Step 1
Assemble the corner uprights first. Then add the crossbeams to make the back, sides and front. Take two 6-foot 2x4s and four 5-foot 2x4s and attach two of the 5-foot pieces between the 6-foot pieces to form crossbeams. Next, attach the other two 5-foot pieces equal distance between the top and bottom crossbeams. Attach all crossbeams with the rigid tie angle brackets. For each side, use two 6-foot uprights, and three 3-foot crossbeams on the top, middle and bottom. Again, use the Rigid Tie Angle Brackets to attach the crossbeams to the uprights. The front wall is slightly different from the back and sides because it needs a doorway. The first step, however, is the same as for the other walls: use two 6’ uprights and two 5-foot crossbeams to make your rectangular frame. Use your 5-foot, 8-inch upright and attach it to the top and bottom boards about 25 ½ inches from the right hand side upright. Once that center upright is attached, put your 31 inches crossbeam in between the left hand upright and your center upright. This creates the front wall and doorway.This completes the major framework for the cage. You can use the metal Angle Plates to attach the wall panels to each other (3 braces per corner) on the top, bottom and middle. At this point we tipped the cage over on its side and attached the casters to the bottom to allow us to roll it from place to place.
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Step 2
Cut the plywood down to the size that you need for your flooring. This should be around 5 feet by 3 feet. Attach the 1-foot by 3-foot along the walls to support the floor and then add a 1x3 brace across the center for added support. Coat the plywood sheet with polyurethane before dropping it into place as the flooring. Should coat it 4 or 5 times.
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Step 3
For the doorframe, use 1x3s again and created a rectangular frame to fit in the doorway just the way we created the sides of the main cage. The frame was stained and polyurethaned and then the plastic netting was stapled over the frame. We then attached it to the front wall with the hinges, and added the door handle and latches.Once the cage is completed and assembled simply stretched the hardware cloth over the top of the cage and stapled it in place along the top edge of the walls. Use 2 pieces of hardware cloth to cover everything. Use small bits of wire to weave the 2 sheets together so that there can be no escaping through a gap in the ceiling.
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Step 4
Finish the wooden frame by using a stain that is water based. This will help to hold up to humidity. Allow the stain to dry overnight. After the stain dries, apply several coats of polyurethane. Use 2 coats on the exterior and 3 coats on the interior. There are many different ways you can create basking and climbing areas for your reptiles. Using the plastic coated metal shelving often used for closets you can make a shelf for nesting. Other options would include wooden of PVC shelves and ramps, or large branches. This all depends what kind of reptile that you are using your cage for.
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Step 5
Enjoy decorating your new home for your reptile. Building a cage like this can be a lot fun for you and the whole family.








