How to Self-Arrest With an Ice Axe
An ice axe is an essential tool for winter and glacier travel in the mountains, but an axe will isn't useful without knowing how to use it properly. In some scenarios, a poorly used ice axe can even injure a climber or cause a false sense of security on snow slopes, leading to avoidable falls. If you are unfamiliar with an ice axe, follow these steps to learn its most basic use: the self-arrest. This technique will help you stop a fall on a moderately steep snow or ice.
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Things You'll Need
- Professional grade ice axe
- Short snow slope with a safe bottom for practice
Instructions
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Slide on your back with your feet pointed downhill and bring the ice axe up to your chest with both hands. Grip the head with your right hand on top of the shaft's joint and your thumb wrapped under the adze (or hammer, depending on the type of axe you have). Your left hand should be on the shaft just above the spike, and the pick should be pointed out from your body with the shaft diagonal across your chest.
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Twist your shoulders and legs to roll to the right side, toward the pick. Holding the axe firmly, plant the pick into the snow using the force of your body weight as you complete the roll, ending face down on the slope.
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Plant your toes into the snow and raise yourself up, supporting your upper body on the head of the ice axe. This will plant the axe further into the slope and will increase friction, bringing your fall to a stop.
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Tips & Warnings
There are many other methods of self-arrest which are used if you fall face down. While the technique is based on this self-arrest method, the other methods are more difficult to master. Have an experienced climber work with you to make sure you are ready for your first outing with an ice axe.
In an actual fall, self-arrest needs to happen very quickly, and the force of the axe digging into the snow will be very shocking. Practice on shallow slopes with safe run-offs before you head into the mountains.
Never roll toward the spike on the end of the shaft. This will cause the axe to whip out from under you and may cause injury.
Always hike with experienced climbers. An axe will arrest a fall on a slope if used correctly, but nothing can provide for total mountain safety like an experienced climbing team.
