How to Convert a Framed Window Panel into a Sliding Door

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Level
reciprocating saw, (commonly called saws all)it is worth the money to buy this tool.
Hammer,
electric screw driver,
gloves,
safety glasses,
caulk gun,
chalk line,
skill saw,
drill bits
pry bar, (wonder bar)
heavy duty extension cord
12 ft. tape measure
lumber as needed.
at least two 2x4 studs
one 14' 2x10
one sheet 4x8x1/2" plywood
one 4x8x1/2" drywall
trim as needed.
1lb 16 d nails
hardware as recommended by door manufacturer

Step 1

Get familiar with your tools..

Make sure you know how to read a level. Mess with your tools before you start. Read your tape measure and practice with with your level.
All wood is not equal. 2x4s are 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 , 2x10s can vary from 1 1/2 x 9 1/4 to 9 1/2 measure before you cut. When you buy 1/2 inch plywood it should be 1/2 inch. Take your tape to the lumberyard .
Step 2

Does this look crooked?

Measure and mark the rough opening for the new door on the inside wall.
( This measurement will be provided with your new door)
Preferably it is best to use one existing side of the window so there is less cutting. However that is not necessary if you want or need your door spaced differently. Make these marks as level and plumb as possible.
Step 3

Mark and measure carefully.

Cut the inside wall on the marks you have made for the rough opening of the new door. Depending on what the wall is covered with, drywall, wood, plaster cut no deeper than the depth of that material. Remove these materials and hand them out the window . Clean up as you go. It is safer and easier. Remove and bag the insulation, it can be reused.
Step 4

Inside of wall

Now you can see inside your wall. Look for wires and pipes. If none proceed, otherwise call licensed plumber or electrician. If professionals have to be called do not tear anything else out as you are now on their schedule. Is your house brick or siding? If brick from the inside drill a hole at the four corners of the rough opening. Use a long small masonry bit 1/4" x 12" is fine, longer is better. Same for siding, only use wood bit. This step can be done while waiting on the electrician or plumber. If wires or pipes do not fall on these marks.
Best if you have a spotter outside while drilling.
Step 5

Go outside and locate and measure your four holes to make sure they match the size of the rough opening of your new door. ( This measurement will be provided with your new door). Measure diagonally (corner to corner) they should be within about a half inch of each other. If it is not early in the day you should stop.
Step 6

Mark the opening as you did on the inside. Remove the window. First remove the caulk and trim. The closer you look the more you will see that can come off. There are usually just a few finish nails holding the window in. These can be driven through with a nail set or cut off with your saws all. Usually the window will come out as a unit and can be sold or reused.
If your house is brick you can rent a masonry saw and saw out the opening. You do just like you did inside, cutting only the depth of the brick. After making the cut you will need to hammer the bricks to get them out. Be careful not to break the ones outside the line. Remove all the siding and underlayment inside the area. Now the entire inside wall is exposed.
Step 7

If your house is wood or siding you would have done the last step minus the masonry saw. Remove all the siding and underlayment inside the area. Now the entire inside wall is exposed.
Step 8

Go inside. Remove the remaining drywall or plaster, (from the top of the opening to the ceiling needs to be removed) If removed carefully it can be reused (dry wall or wood only). Use your wonder bar to reach between the drywall and remove the nails. Could be (screws)don't get upset if you tear this up.
Now you will be removing and replacing studs. You can reuse some of the wood you will be tearing out. There will most likely be two studs you can reuse. Cut the very bottom with the saws all so that you just cut the nails holding them in place. There will most likely be short horizontal 2x4s between them. Cut the nails in these the same way. Now you can wiggle and twist them and they should come loose.
Step 9

Where the window was will be two studs , possibly double. They should have a heavy wide board at the top. By cutting the top and bottom as before you should be able to remove this in a few minutes. Take all your wood outside and see if anything can be reused. (Whole studs) In the event there is an existing stud exactly at the edge of your rough opening that is fine.
Step 10

Frame and header

Now your entire rough opening should be clean. You will need two pieces of 2x10 and four studs and a piece of 1/2 inch plywood.. Frame this inside the house as a unit if possible. Before you frame it measure your new door so you will be sure it will fit into the piece you are about to frame,.
Two studs will be full size. The other two will be shorter by the amount of the 2x10 s or equal to the height of the rough opening.. (see drawing) the 2 x 10 s will be the length of the rough opening plus three inches..
Use the old or new insulation and carefully fill, (do not pack) the space from the last existing stud to the edge of the rough opening.
Step 11

Make it fit by cutting and measuring right!

In order to place this unit in the opening you may want to remove more drywall from the sides also. Do not enlarge the opening outside in the yard. You will be framing from the inside. If you don't You will have to work to get it in because it will be six inches larger than the opening in your drywall.
Make sure there is nothing in the way both top and bottom, nails etc.
Place one end in and slowly work it into place. You will have to use your hammer to make it walk into place.

Your unit will stand in place by itself. Toenail one side at the bottom.
Plum that side then nail it at the top. Do the same thing to the other side. Now you can toenail the top, (wide board)(header) to the board above it.
The studs should be mostly hidden behind the wall and the header should be showing at the top. Step outside and it should pretty much look the same out there if your house is siding.
Step 12

Check operation of door

Now measure the height of the new door. Depending on the type of threshold that comes with the door and the type of flooring you have you will cut out the 2x4 on the bottom of the opening and fill with a spacer or not. (see drawing).Place flashing or roofing felt on bottom of opening. After doing this calk bottom with silicone caulk and place door into opening. Installing from the inside or outside will depend on whether or not the door comes with trim on one side. Outside trim is common so most install from outside. Follow manufacturers recommendations for fastening door in place. You will need spacers (shims) in places as recommended. You can buy these at lumber stores with your other lumber.
Step 13

Check door for operation , if not smooth or binds follow manufacturers recommendations. Usually screwed in too tight in one or two spots or missing spacers. If door works ok fill spaces with insulation.(between door frame and stud) Caulk frame with silicone calk until no daylight shows.
Step 14

Install new inside trim. You can use standard trim or you could design your own. Install outside trim using treated or plastic lumber and brick mold if needed.. Extra work will be needed if brick.