How to Apply Pancake Makeup

Pancake makeup is a thick, full-coverage foundation used primarily to cover major skin discoloration, scars, tattoos or facial hair. It is also used to give the skin a flawless finish in film, television, theater or photography settings. Pancake makeup was invented by Max Factor in the 1930s to replace the greasepaint used in film and theater productions and was even used to darken the faces of commandos for nighttime operations. Max Factor still produces pancake makeup in traditional skin tones primarily for use for people with very uneven skin. Pancake makeup specifically for theater, film, and photography applications can be purchased from Ben Nye, Kryolan or Mehron.Pancake makeup is not suitable for daily wear and is the maximum amount of coverage a foundation can provide. Applying pancake makeup can be tricky, so follow these instructions to get the best results.

Things You'll Need

• Pancake makeup in two shades
• Cosmetic sponge wedges
• Water
• Spritz bottle

Instructions

Select Your Shade and Apply the Makeup

1. Selecting your shade is the first and most important step to correctly applying pancake makeup. If you are trying to hide mild to moderate discoloration or just want to avoid having your complexion "washed out" by camera flash, then you will only need one shade of pancake makeup. This shade should match your skin as accurately as possible. Pancake makeup should be tested in person at the cosmetics counter. Do not wear any makeup when testing cosmetics or your results will not be accurate. The clerk should be able to provide you with a makeup sample and a clean, damp cosmetic sponge. Apply several shades to your jaw line to determine which is the closest match. Do not test makeup on your arm or hand as this will not provide accurate results. If you have to cover severe discoloration, hair stubble or tattoos, then you will need to purchase an additional shade of pancake makeup that is one shade lighter than your skin tone

2. Prepare your makeup and skin for application. Pancake makeup is water activated. This means that it must be dampened to work well. A very light spritz of water in the foundation pan will help prepare the makeup. You should also dampen your cosmetic sponge wedges by dipping them in water and squeezing out all the excess. Your skin should also be well hydrated. While your pancake makeup is absorbing water, take the time to wash your face with a gentle exfoliating cleanser. Once your face is clean, softly pat it dry and apply a light moisturizer. A moisturized face will allow for the best streak-free coverage. Do not be rough with your face during this process; pancake makeup is not gentle on the skin, so the less irritation your skin undergoes, the better. If you must shave prior to make up application, wait 30 minutes before moisturizing and applying makeup to avoid further irritation.

3. Apply the pancake makeup in layers. If you are covering severe skin discoloration, hair stubble or tattoos, begin with the lighter shade of foundation. Lightly tap the damp cosmetic sponge into the makeup cake until there is sufficient color on the sponge. Dab the foundation over the dark areas, carefully blending with swift, light, upward strokes until the dark areas are covered. With a clean, damp, cosmetic wedge follow the same process with your skin-tone-matching makeup. Begin in the center of the forehead and use light, quick, upward strokes in a starburst pattern to cover the forehead. For the nose downward, swipes should be followed by upward swipes for total coverage. The eyes are best serviced by lightly daubing the makeup over the lid and under the brow. The cheeks should be covered in the same manner as the forehead. Make sure that the hair and jaw lines are thoroughly blended. While the entire face should be well blended, poor blending of these two areas will ruin the effect. It is best to apply several thin layers of makeup instead of one thick layer. Once the makeup is dry, you will have a flawless, matte finish.

Tips & Warnings

• Pancake makeup has a very matte finish. Blushes and bronzers with a touch of shimmer will help liven up your look.

• Touch-ups on the go are virtually impossible. If you will be wearing your makeup for longer than 4 hours, carry oil blotting sheets to absorb facial oils and refresh your look.

• Pancake makeup is perfect for extreme lighting conditions. In ultra-high lighting situations like camera flash, pancake makeup can keep your complexion for "washing out." In low-light situation, pancake makeup can give your face a beautiful, flawless finish.

• Pancake makeup is not suitable for daytime, outdoor or casual wear. Is is also a poor choice for hot or humid environments.

• Pancake makeup is very heavy and can be uncomfortable when worn for a prolonged period of time.

• Pancake makeup can clog pores and cause breakouts. Use it only on special occasions when you will be photographed, filmed, on stage or during evening events where light levels are likely to be low.

Resources

• Read this Article in Spanish
• FXSupply