How to Change Convertible Top on Ford Mustang

A shop will charge you $800 or more for this job. You can buy the top for $200, plus some tools for $100 (which you'll keep), and you can do it yourself to save $500. You can use the bucks you saved to go to Vegas ;)

It took me 3 days to do. I hope with this article you'll do it faster.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Rivet tool + 3mm and 4mm rivets
• Heavy-duty Stapler + 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm staples.
• Various screwdrivers
• A special 12-point socket 13mm (see picture).
• A "magic wire": 3' long, stiff wire (2.5mm diameter or so).
• Replacement interior body panel clips
• Plyers
• A drill

1. 
   Before

   This is my 95 mustang. The top construction on 1994-1998 mustangs are the same, and tops on 1999-2004 must be very similar.
   
   I bought my top online and it came with step-by-step instructions. During the process the instructions were useful, however they had very few illustrations, they didn't mention many tools that you'll need, and missed a few steps.
   
   My general advice is to use the instructions and read this article because it's complimentary to the instructions.

2. 
   Tacking strip

   This is a tacking strip. You need to buy one together with the top because the old one will crack when you remove the old staples.

3. 
   Rivet tool

   This is a rivet tool. I bought mine at Home Depot for ~$20. Also, buy 3mm rivets and 4mm rivets.

4. 
   Star-like screwdriver

   This is a special star-like screwdriver. It's needed to unscrew the screws that hold convertible top and the inner cloth lining. I bought mine at Home Depot.

5. 
   Special 12-point 13mm socket and a handle

   This is a special 12-point 13mm star socket that you'll need to unscrew the back of the top. I bought mine at OSH. The set is expensive but at OSH I could buy just the one that I need. I also bought a handle for it. Don't buy an L-shaped handle.

6. 
   The u-shaped metal strip (shown unscrewed)

   Your first challenge is to remove the u-shaped metal strip that runs around the back of the top (see picture). In order access the screws that hold its sides you'll have to disassemble the side plastic panels. And in order to disassemble the side plastic panels, you'll have to take out the back seat.

7. 
   Removing lower back cushion

   To disassemble the back seat, locate plastic "buttons" under the lower cushion, press them, and lift the lower cushion.

8. 
   Removing upper back cushion

   To remove the back cushion, unscrew the screws that hold the bottom, and lift the cushion.

9. 
   Removing clips that hold side back panels

   Now you can access the clips that hold the side panels. Remove them using a hammer. You'll need to buy the same clips to replace the ones you removed as they aren't reusable. I bought replacement clips at Kragen.

10. 
    Disconnecting siden back panels

    Now disconnect the rubber parts that hold each side panel as shown on the picture. Carefully remove side panels. you'll need to apply some force to pull them toward the front of the car as there are clips that hold them (you can see the clip on the picture. Also, pay attention to the bottom part that goes under another plastic part.

11. 
    Getting access to screws that hold back metal strip

    Remove the rubber parts that obscure access to the screws of the back metal strip.

12. 
    Back metal strip removed

    Remove the screws that hold the back metal strip, and the strip itself. To access the back screws, open the hood. First challenge complete!

13. 
    Removing front screws

    The second challenge is to remove the old top. Remove the screws that hold the front of the top using the star-like screwdriver. The top must be open. After unscrewing the screws, remove the metal bar under the screws.

14. 
    Top Corners

    The instructions say that you should note how the corners of the top look like so that you'll make the new one the same way. Here is the picture.

15. 
    Removing staples that hold the front part of the top

    Using a flat screwdriver or other tool of your choice, remove the staples that hold the front part of the top. The staples go into tacking strips. We'll replace the tacking strips so it's ok if they crack during this process.

16. 
    Unscrew inner lining

    Close the top half/way. Unscrew the screws that hold the inner lining.

17. 
    Removing the lining

    There are three horizontal metal bars that run across the top. The lining is screwed in a tricky way to those bars. The instructions call the front bar (with the staples that you've removed) as bar #1, then other bars are 2, 3, and 4. When unscrewing the lining, make a note of the order in which you unscrew it from the bars. (I didn't make a note and had to do extra work because of it).

18. 
    Detaching the back of the lining

    The back of the lining is attached by screws below the rear window and are hard to access. You might break a sweat while unscrewing them. The good news is that there are just two of them, one on each side. Complete the removal of the lining.

19. 
    Detaching top sides

    Detach the sides of the top from the frame by unscrewing the bars that hold them, and then pulling the top fabric (it's kind of glued there).

20. 
    Release side rigns

    Each top side end is held tight by a spring that runs through a metal ring on the top. Use the magic wire to hook the spring and pull it up; use pliers in another hand to release the loop of the spring.

21. Now access the tightening cords that are attached to the side pillars of the top and release them. Then pull the cords out through the loop in fabric. (no picture)

22. 
    Removing back screws that hold the top

    The most difficult step in top disassembly is to unscrew the screws that hold the back of the top. There are more than a dozen of them and they are hard to access. Use a 12-point 13mm socket mentioned above.

23. 
    The back of the top is stapled to bars

    The back of the top is stapled to the metal bars that you have just unscrewed. Remove the staples but don't remove the staples that hold the window part of the top.

24. 
    Removing staples from bar #4

    Remove the staples that hold the top to bar #4 (just above the window). Don't remove the window part of the top unless you want to change it, too. In my case, I left it in-place.

25. 
    After removing the top

    Challenge two complete! Don't throw away the old top just yet, you'll need it.

26. 
    Side tacking strip

    Challenge 3 is to replace the tacking strips. There are three tacking strips: The center one and two side ones. There are two cloth strips that run on each side from back to front that are attached to the side tacking strips. I suggest to replace the side tacking strips only if they are damaged.

27. 
    Rivet removed

    To replace a tacking strip, first remove the rivets that hold the old tacking strip by using a drill with the bit diameter wider than the diameter of the rivet and drill through the center of the rivet until it falls out.

28. 
    Putting the new tacking strip in place

    Using a utility knife, cut out a piece of tacking strip to match the size of the old one. Then put it in place and drill the holes (4mm for side strips and 3mm for the center strip).

29. 
    Using the rivet tool

    Attach the strip using the rivet tool. The picture is not accurate because it shows the front bar lying on the floor. I detached the front bar because I was also replacing the lock mechanisms which needs more tools, and I wouldn't recommend detaching the front bar if you are just replacing the top. Challenge 3 complete!

30. 
    Putting old top on new top

    Challenge 4 is to install the new top.
    As the instructions for the top say, put the new top on a flat surface, then put the old one on top of it, and make the necessary markings. Keep in mind that the old top has stretched with time, and its sides might look bigger than the new tops. On my new top, there were holes on the sides that ended up being the correct points for marking the cut-out lines (they should run through the holes).

31. 
    Cutouts

    Make the cutouts. The cutouts are needed because the screws will go thought those holes. If you make the cutouts too deep then your top will leak so be careful.

32. 
    New top stapled to bar #4

    Top installation process is the reverse of top removal process.
    First, staple the top to bar #4. Use 10mm staples.

33. 
    Stapling the back

    Then, staple the back to the bars under the window using 10mm staples. Use clamps to fix the cloth in place before stapling. The cutouts should align with the screw holes on the bar. (The picture shows that my cutouts were too small, and I had to make them deeper later.) Use 8mm staples.

34. 
    Back bars screwed in

    Next, screw the back bars to the frame using the 12-point 13mm socket. Break a sweat again ;)

35. 
    Attaching the top to bars 3 and 2

    Bars 3 and 2 are not stapled; instead, you need to unscrew and remove the aluminum sticks inside the bars, put them though the corresponding loops on the inside of the top, put them back in and screw them back.

36. 
    Don't do this

    Don't staple the front bar yet! You must install the lining first. I made a mistake that's shown on the picture and had to undo it.

37. 
    Pulling cord through the side of the top

    Pull each tightening cord through the loop of fabric on the side of the top. Use the magic wire to do it. First, pull the magic wire through the loop, hook the cord, and pull it back. Attach the tightening cord to the pillar.

38. 
    Attaching a side ring to the spring

    Attach the rings on the sides of the top to the springs with the help of the magic wire.

39. 
    Top sides complete

    Wrap the sides of the top around pillars and "glue" them to the same place where the old top used to be. Screw the panels that you removed in step 19.

40. 
    Lining installed to bars 2 and 3

    Install the lining to bars 2 and 3 (I can't remember which one is first so I asked you to note it). The order is important.

41. If you replaced the side tacking strips, make sure you have stapled the side cloth strips to the side tacking strips using 6mm staples.

42. 
    Lining stapled to front bar

    Pull the lining through the front bar, wrap it around and staple it to the center tacking strip using 6mm staples. Try to staple it exactly to the same place where it was to avoid stretch lines later. Then attach the button clips that hold the lining to the corners of the front bar.

43. 
    Testing new top for stretches

    Wrap the new top around the front bar and staple it in just a few places. Then close the top and test it for stretch lines. The top might not close all the way but that's ok. It's better if it's tight than if it's loose.

44. After making sure everything is even and there are no stretch marks, staple the rest of the top. Pay attention to corners to make them the same way the old corners were.

45. 
    The new top is stretched and closed

    Screw the metal bar to the top bar above the staples of the new top and test the top again. This time, try to close it all the way. If it's too tight, try to stretch it little by little, like you stretch your legs during an exercise. The instructions recommend to use a hairdryer to warm it so that it stretches better. Challenge 4 complete!

46. The next challenge is to install the u-shaped bar that runs around the back of the top, and then everything else that you took apart:
    1. Using clips attach the "wings" on the sides of the top to the body
    2. Install the u-shaped bar with all screws including the side screws
    3. Install the rubber parts around the window
    4. Install Side panels (install new clips)
    5. Install Top cushion
    6. Install Bottom cushion
    Challenge 5 complete!

47. 
    The job is done

    Screw in the remaining screws on the lining. With the back seat installed it should be more convenient to do. Don't forget to plug in contacts to the window defroster. The job is done!

Tips & Warnings

• During the process you'll need to close/open the top many times. This may drain your car battery. You can avoid it by starting the car and letting it run idle for a while (with an open garage door, of course) after each 5-6 close/open cycles.
• Wear protective gloves!

[kdjohns2]

on 10/19/2009 I was just wondering if you use a vinyl top or a cloth top for this project because I'm about to change the top on my 2000 Mustang

[kevinrocksman]

on 10/12/2009 is this pretty much thge same thing with a 94 mustang..
how hard is it to change the back window section

[ctjake37]

on 7/12/2009 I am going to replace my 1995 top and I was wondering where you purchased your top and what material it is made of? I have read online that the OEM was made of pinpoint vinyl and also that it was made of Sailcloth.

[aryzhov]

on 6/11/2009 Where to get tacking strips? Try googling "convertible top guys".

[chuck4800]

on 6/8/2009 I would like to know where were you able to find the tacking strip. I have checked here in El Paso with no luck. Can you help me out with this.