How to Save Vegetable Seeds

Garden seed can get expensive, especially if you wish to grow a wide variety of vegetables other than the traditional green bean and tomato. Heirloom varieties can run upwards of a dollar a seed and you are at the seed company's mercy when it comes to purchasing more than a few tiny seeds at a time. Saving your own seed from vegetables grown in your garden can put dollars back into your pocket and guarantee that you are getting exactly what you are looking for.

Things You'll Need

• Mature plants
• Plastic storage bags
• Permanent marker

Instructions

1. Determine whether or not the vegetable plants you desire to save seed from are hybrids. Hybrids are specially bred plants that are a cross between two or more varieties. These plants have been engineered to produce the best qualities of each variety and often produce wonderful fruit; however, any seed saved from these plants will not produce the same offspring and may even be sterile. It's worth a try if you are interested in growing a new variety; but, you are likely to get several different varieties of that vegetable. In some cases, such as squash, you may get two or more totally different squash plants.

2. Allow one or two of the healthiest and most prolific producers grow to maturity. Saving seeds from less desirable specimens will result in sub-par seeds. Avoid the temptation to gather seeds from left over plants at the end of the season. They were probably left because the fruit was less abundant or inferior in some way.

3. Gather seeds after they have dried and are completely mature. Immature seeds will not keep or produce new plants. Peas and beans will mature right on the vine if left to their own devices. Fruiting vegetables may need to be opened and dried once the fruit itself has reached maturity. Cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and tomatoes will require a mature fruit to gather seeds.

4. Spread mature seeds such as beans, peas and other legumes out on a screen or newspaper and keep them in a cool dry area until they are completely dry. They should be hard and dry. It is important that no moisture remains in the seeds or they will mold or mildew during the winter months.

5. Cut fleshy fruits such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Don't worry if a little pulp clings to them. You will handle that in the next step. Be sure the fruit is completely mature. Green peppers are the immature fruit of the pepper plant. A mature pepper will be red or yellow depending on the variety. Cucumbers are not ripe at the eating stage. They must be left to grow until they are fat and yellow.

6. Place the seeds and any clinging gel or pulp in a cup or bowl and cover with an inch or two of water. Cover with plastic wrap. Be sure to punch a couple of holes to allow air to circulate.

7. Set the seeds on a warm window sill or other warm area in your home for three to five days. The seeds and water will begin to ferment. This is exactly what you want to happen. This process will kill of any viruses that may be present and separate the seeds from the gel and pulp. Stir the mixture everyday and scoop off any scum that has formed on the surface of the water.

8. Remove the seeds from the water once the seeds sink to the bottom and separate from the remaining flesh of the fruit. Seeds that are floating at this point are not viable seeds. Discard them with the other waste.

9. Strain in a small strainer and layer the seeds on a coffee filter or paper towels. The seeds should be in a single layer.

10. Allow the seeds to dry in a well ventilated area for several days. Stir them frequently to assure even drying.

11. Store in any airtight container. Plastic storage bags work well, but be sure there is no moisture left in the seeds if you choose this method. Moisture will cause the seeds to mold and will quickly ruin the entire batch.

12. Label the container with the name of the vegetable and its variety. Be sure to date the seeds and use them the next year. Some seeds will germinate for three years, but some will not. The best practice is to use the seeds the next season and save more seeds in the fall.