How to Build a Triangle Shaped Loft Bed

This project could also be called how to build a corner loft bed, because this is exactly how the project will be done. First we will attach two framing members to the wall so that they meet in the corner, then a front piece is attached and the area within the triangle becomes the platform for our bed. Triangular loft beds are a good way to utilize overhead room space provided the ceilings are not too low. You could even build one in a room with eight foot ceilings and put a desk underneath, but for the most part, building a triangular loft bed is not a good option unless a room has at least ten foot ceilings.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Circular saw
• Safety glasses
• Lumber
• Electric drill
• Saw horses
• Lag bolts with washers
• Wood screws
• 16-penny nails hammer
• Screw gun

1. Cut the two side pieces that will be attached to the wall. 2 by 6s or 2 by 8s will work in this case. Your bed will end up being in the shape of a right triangle. That means that if you use 4-foot side pieces, then the long piece of the bed will be just under 6 feet long. With a side piece that is 5 feet long, the front side of the bed will be almost 7 feet long, and with a 6-foot side pieces, your long piece will be about 7 and ½ feet long. When you cut the side pieces to length, be sure that one end of each board has a 45-degree cut.

2. Attach the two side pieces to the wall. Pick a height ( between 6 and 7 feet is good) and secure the two pieces of planking to the walls, so that they are level with the center spot in the corner. You can locate the wooden studs with a magnetic stud finder or by tapping on the wall lightly with a hammer. Drive a 12 or 16 penny nail into the place where you think the stud is located, just to make sure that there is solid wood behind the wall. Attach the planking with 3- to 4-inch long ¼ inch lag bolts. It is a good idea to use two lag bolts for each stud and not to put them too close, but there is no need to recess any of the lags until you get to the long front piece. You can purchase extra-special long drill bits to make sure the pilot holes reach the wooden studs behind the wall. Also, it is a good idea to first tack these two framing members into place with 16 penny nails. Once the lag bolts are in place then you can remove the nails with a claw hammer. The end with the 45-degree cut should be located away from the corner of the room. (Please note that if your building has solid masonry walls or if you don’t own the building, then you can build a free-standing loft bed.)

3. Cut and attach the long piece of the bed. Take a measurement across the open space between the two framing members and cut that board using a normal 90-degree cut on both ends. Attach it to each end of the already-placed 2 by 6s using three 3-inch wood screws. Again, you can use a couple of long nails to tack the board in place. When you drill the pilot holes for the wood screws, be certain that the pilot holes run completely into the 2 by 6 that has already been attached to the wall. Now you have the frame for your bed in place. (If you are building a free-standing bed, then assemble the three pieces on the floor. The frame can be put together with wood screws, but when you add the framing members be sure to use lag bolts and don’t forget that each lag bolt needs a washer. Also, remember that a free-standing bed will need some diagonal bracing.)

4. Cut the cross members. These will be 2 by 6s with one end cut at a 45-degree angled cut. They will be placed 16 inches apart. First cut the 45-degree angle, then hold the board in place underneath and mark the other end, which will be cut perfectly square at 90 degrees. These can be toe-nailed into place with 12-penny rosin-coated nails. You can drive three nails straight into each end and then make sure you put a couple of toenails in at each joint, as well.

5. Cover the top of the frame with ½-inch plywood. You can nail the plywood in place with 6-penny common nails or 1-inch building screws. Be certain that the outside edge of the plywood is flush with the outside edge of the frame. To do this, chalk a line from one corner of a full sheet of plywood across the width of the plywood (that should be 4 feet). The chalk line should travel in a 45-degree angle from the corner until it crosses the outside edge of the plywood. At the point where this chalk line crosses the opposite edge of the plywood, chalk another line at a 45-degree angle from the edge until it crosses again to the other side of the plywood, where you first began the big triangle, marked by two chalk lines, which should be at a 90-degree angle to each other.Next you can cut the plywood along the outside edge of the chalk line. What you have now is a giant triangle. Slide it over the top of the frame that you just built, until it fits tight into the corner. Score the underside with a pencil. Remove the plywood to a set of sawhorses and make your final cut. Put the plywood in place and then nail (or screw) the sheet tight to the frame.

6. Build a ladder. To do this, first cut two 2 by 4s to the exact length of the height of the platform. Turn them sideways and screw the two pieces of wood into the 2 by 6 with 2 ½-inch wood screws that enter from the inside of the frame. (An alternative method is to notch the upright 2 by 4 so it fits partially underneath the 2 by 6 frame. Now you can screw the ladder frame directly to the 2 by 6.) Cut some rungs from the ladder out of a 2 by 4. Install them one foot apart with 3-inch lag bolts, using three for each side of the rung and don’t forget to pre-drill with pilot holes.

7. Attach a 2 by 4 to the other end of of the 2 by 6 frame. Make sure it is flush with the top of the plywood and turn it sideways so that you only have to drill through 1 ½ inches of wood. Now take some 2 ½ inch wood screws and make sure this upright is firmly attached to the frame.

8. Take some foam padding and cut it to fit on top of the plywood. It should be the exact same size as the plywood. (Make sure you acquire a comfortable foam pad, something like the type that hospitals use. Because of the irregular shape of the bed a mattress will almost be impossible to find for such an opening.

9. Take a 1 by 12 inch pine plank and attach it to the out side of the frame. Be certain that the board runs from the edge of the ladder all the way to the far upright. This will keep you from rolling out of bed in the middle of the night. With a wall on two sides of the bed, it is imperative that you secure this piece of wood securely with 1 ½-inch wood screws.

Tips & Warnings

• In an old building, use a framing square to make sure the corner is square. If it is not square, then you may have to adjust the angle of your cut on the plywood.
• In an old building the wood studs of the interior wall may not be evenly spaced apart. It may take some trial and error to locate each one.
• You can add another support to the frame where it meets in the corner of the room, as a means of extra strength.
• Don’t build your bed to close to the ceiling, unless you like sleeping in a cave.