How to Install Pressed Chair Cane Webbing

Cane webbing, sheet cane, machine cane and spline cane are a few different names of this type of chair caning. It was invented in the 1870s and is a mechanized version of caning a chair.

Installing cane webbing is a lot easier and less time consuming than its counterpart, hole-to-hole hand caning.

The hardest part of this caning process, is removing the old cane and glue from the groove. But on average this caning project should take you only about one hour to complete from start to finish.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• cane chair with a groove or spline on the top where the cane webbing is inserted--no holes drilled through the framework
• replacement sheet cane
• replacement rattan reed spline
• special spline removal chisels, 1/8"W, 1/4"W or 3/8"W
• hammer
• utility knife with sharp blades
• measuring tape
• basketmaking or regular scissors
• wooden wedges
• white glue or hide glue (do NOT use carpenters yellow glue or super glue)
• large sink, bathtub, or 4 inch diameter x 3 foot long, PVC pipe with cap on end to soak rolled up sheet cane in water

1. 
   Remove old cane webbing, spline and glue from groove.

   Refer to my previous article on "Removing Chair Cane Spline" for detailed instructions on the following first step.
   
   Remove cane webbing, spline and glue from chair seat using specially made chisels. Then bevel the inside edge of seat opening using a rasp and sandpaper, so the sharp edge doesn't cut the new cane.

2. Measure cane webbing to be 2" beyond the groove in all four sides. Also measure the width of the groove and measure for length too, giving yourself about 2-4" longer than needed for the spline.
   
   Cane webbing, spline and caning wedges can be ordered from special cane & basket supply stores online and through woodworking shops. There are several different patterns and sizes of cane webbing to suit your needs, but order the specific size spline to fit the groove in your chair.

3. Soak the cane webbing or sheet cane in warm water for at least 30 minutes up to four hours until very supple. Roll up the cane and soak in bathtub, wallpaper tray, or PVC pipe with caps on both ends.
   
   Measure spline to be 2 inches longer than groove. Spline only needs to soak a short time, so put it in the water as you apply the webbing.

4. 
   Position oversized cane webbing and tamp in with wedges

   Drain or shake off excess water from cane webbing. Position the pre-soaked cane webbing over large seat hole opening so the pattern is centered and lined up both vertically and horizontally.
   
   Make sure you have the shinny side up, which is the correct side. Then gently tamp webbing into the groove with the wooden wedges, assisted with light taps from the hammer.

5. 
   Cut webbing at all four corners and cut off excess cane on sides.

   Press cane into groove at back and front first, then press cane into sides so the cane is centered properly. Cut webbing at each corner to ease installation into groove and cut off excess webbing on sides to within 1". Use care to only cut on the outside of the groove, not the inside or you will ruin the sheet of cane.

6. 
   Tamp cane in all around the intire groove

   Continue to tamp webbing into all sides of the chair seat groove. Make sure that the webbing is completely down into the groove and that the sheet itself is pulled taught, but not tight. The cane will shrink and tighten as it dries, so you don't want to install too tightly while it's wet.

7. 
   Cut surplus cane from outside edge of groove

   After cane is tamped down along the entire groove, then cut excess cane webbing from outer edge of groove. Use a new sharp blade in your utility knife to make a clean cut within 1/4" below seat surface. Again, going all the way around the groove.

8. 
   Apply bead of glue to cane side of groove

   Apply a 1/8" bead of hide glue or any white, water-soluble glue to the inside edge of the groove, where the cane is.

9. 
   Press spline into groove using the side of a wooden wedge and tap lightly with hammer

   Shake off excess water from previously soaked reed spline and press into groove, beginning at the center back. Lay a wooden wedge on the side and lightly tap with the hammer so the spline lays even with the seat surface or just slightly above.

10. 
    Measure spline, make blunt cut in end piece, and press into groove.

    When you get around to the beginning end of spline, measure both ends so they butt up closely together with no gap in between and mark those spots lightly with your fingernail or pencil. Place a small piece of wood like a shim or use the flat side of a cane wedge to cut the spline ends.
    
    Using your utility knife or basketmaking scissors, make either a diagonal cut on both ends as in the photograph, or a blunt cut. Press ends into groove so they lay just a hair under the top of the seat surface like the rest of the spline.

11. Clean up any excess glue spills with a warm, wet rag and you're project is done! Allow at least three days for the cane and the glue in the groove to dry thoroughly before using. Enjoy!

Tips & Warnings

• Cane webbing, spline, chisels, glue, basketmaking scissors and wooden cane wedges can all be purchased through specialty cane & basket suppliers or through woodworking shops
• In Step #7 when you're cutting off the excess cane from the outside of the groove, DO NOT cut cane from INSIDE of groove or it will ruin the cane and you'll have to start all over!
• Don't let anyone sit on the seat for at least 3-5 days so the cane webbing and glue can dry thoroughly.
• Use only hide glue or white water-soluble glue, do NOT use yellow carpenter's glue or super glue in groove. It will be almost impossible to remove the next time the cane seat is to be replaced if you use yellow or super glue.
• The natural glossy side of the cane seat does not accept stain well, so it's best to let the cane seat age naturally. After about 5-7 years it will turn a dark honey color.
• If you must match the color of the seat to one of a set, it's best to use an oil-base stain applied by brush, using several light coats. Let dry between applications and follow up with a natural varnish or polyurethane.
• Always use caution when handling sharp tools such as the chisels and utility knives to guard against cutting yourself. But make sure the tools you are using are sharp rather than dull, so they perform optimally.
• If using stain, varnish or polyurethane do so in a well ventilated room or outdoors.

Resources

• The Wicker Woman--Cane & Basket Supplies
• The Wicker Woman--Articles
• Seatweaving, Chair Caning & Wicker Repair Forum
• The Wicker Woman--Find Chair Caning Experts Here!

[acole]

on 7/16/2008 Great info.

[Elizabethknows]

on 7/10/2008 Seems like you know your stuff. I know nothing about this stuff but I always want to find new things to read about thanks!

[luv2blog]

on 7/10/2008 Wonderful and very useful. Thanks

[Limowreck]

on 7/10/2008 These articles are simply fantastic. Clear and easy to follow instructions. Excellent photos. This writer knows her stuff and teaches it well. Thanks!

[writetruth]

on 7/7/2008 Great article with wonderful information. 5 Stars!