How to hang greenboard in your bathroom or kitchen

Hanging drywall and greenboard are the same process except that I normally use fiber mesh tape in bathrooms and kitchens, instead of paper tape to finish it. The fiber tape holds up much better to moisture. Fiber tape with metal strips in it to bend into corners is available.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

Things You’ll Need:

• 5/8 or 3/4 inch greenboard
• T-square
• Box knife
• Tape measure
• pencil
• chalk line
• drill for drywall screws
• 1 5/8" drywall screws
• Drywall bits
• sanding block
• hammer
• rags for wiping spills/drips

1. I don't have any recent bathroom pictures, but this gives you an idea of how it should look. Always plan the layout of your project to use full sheets whenever possible and make the cuts so that the joints fall in the center of a joist or stud. Hang ceilings first so that the walls will help support the weight of the ceiling. The proper way to hang your greenboard is horizontally, but if you have 8 foot ceilings or less you can hang it vertically to create less joints to be finished. Always try to cut your greenboard so that your beveled edges meet, this is also easier to finish.
2. Measure and mark your panels with the green colored face towards you.
   Line up your T-square with the marks and press firmly against the panel. For cuts longer than 4 feet use a chalk line to make your line and than cut along the inside of the line.
3. Cut through the paper face and slightly into the drywall, grasp the edge of the board with one hand and gently tap the board right next to the place where you cut to break it on the line. Now from the back side of the sheet you can push the blade through the paper and finish your cut easily. (It helps to have someone hold the piece you are cutting so you will not break it). After you cut the board use your sanding block to gently sand the cut edge smooth.
4. Before hanging the greenboard make sure all of your wall studs are free of nails and debris. Also check to see if all your studs are straight, you can do this using a 4 foot level (if your studs are not straight, they must be straightened or replaced). Mark the placement of all your studs (using a pencil) on the ceiling and edge of the tub or floor so you can find them after you have put up the sheet.
5. Use a good construction adhesive, apply it to all of your wall studs, this helps to hold it if there is a leak or moisture problem. I also use 1 5/8" coarse drywall screws instead of nails as they tend to hold longer.
6. Place the sheet in the area you have measured (making sure that your sheet only covers half of the stud so that you will have room to place your next sheet). Press it firmly against the wall to give the adhesive a good bond. Start in the center of your sheet and place the first screw. Than go to the edges. Place your screws about 2 feet apart. Always put two screws right next to each other for a greater bond.
7. For cutting holes for wall outlets and ceiling fixtures, after you measure and mark the area, you can score the lines with a drywall knife (box knife) and then cut an X across the area on the inside of the scored lines. You can then tap the piece out with a hammer or use a rotozip to make the cut, which is easier for some people, but the rotozip can get away from you very easily.

Tips & Warnings

• This is not rocket science. Anyone can do this if you just take your time and pay attention to what you are doing.
• If you would like a pro to come out and do this for you, visit my site at http://smoothstroke.biz
• you should always wear safety goggles
• you should always wear a respirator or dust mask.
• remember, a rotozip can get away from you very easily and cause bodily injury. As with any power tool, be careful.