How to Apply Joint Tape
Taping and "mudding" Sheetrock (drywall) is a process that requires practice - and if you're doing a whole room or a whole house you'll get plenty of that. The first coat is the tape coat - here's what to do. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Utility Knives
- Drywall Joint Compound
- Drywall Joint Tape
- Drywall Trowel And Knives
Instructions
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Apply Tape to Joints
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1
Choose your weapon. Taping a joint can be done with two different types of tape: paper tape or self-adhering mesh tape.
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2
Apply adhesive mesh tape directly to the Sheetrock, centering the strip of tape over the joint and pressing it firmly to the surface.
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3
Apply paper tape a bit differently: Load your 4- or 6-inch taping knife with drywall compound (mud) and apply it in an even thin coat along the joint; then take a length of the paper tape and press it into the mud with your knife.
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4
Make sure that the tape (whichever you use) is smooth and that there are no air bubbles under it.
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5
Apply another thin coat over the top of the tape. You should still be able to see the tape through the drywall compound.
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6
Allow this to dry completely before applying additional coats of drywall compound. (You won't need to apply additional tape.)
Apply Tape to Inside Corners
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7
Press adhesive mesh tape directly into the corner. Make sure that the tape is evenly shared between the two walls.
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8
Apply paper tape with a mud bed, as described above. Spread a thin layer of mud into a corner joint with a trowel. Fold a length of tape in half and press its fold into the corner. Run corner trowel down middle of corner to press tape into mud and work out excess mud.
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9
Spread a thin layer of mud on top of tape using corner trowel.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Mud all nail or screw heads with this first coat.
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Comments
View all 8 Comments-
seamusconlon
Oct 30, 2006
Although the article is very good, you do not comment on what to do with the excess mud that accumulates outside the area that is being taped. Does one use sandpaper to get it off or what does one do to get a smooth surface to paint - when the job is doen?
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seamusconlon
Oct 30, 2006
Although the article is very good, you do not comment on what to do with the excess mud that accumulates outside the area that is being taped. Does one use sandpaper to get it off or what does one do to get a smooth surface to paint - when the job is doen?
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Dec 19, 2005
I've been doing finish drywall work for many years, and I always add some water to my all-purpose mud before starting to apply tape. It will make the mud smooth out a lot easier. I also use an 8 inch knife taping flats and butt joints, a 6 inch knife on angles spreading the mud sideways with my knife, not the 6 inch way. The key is to get plenty of mud on the walls so you don't have blisters.
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Nov 22, 2005
Wet tape sticks to the underlying mud. It is much better than using it dry and it is easier to see any trapped air under the tape. After submersing the tape in water, run it between two fingers to remove most of the water and then apply.
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Nov 22, 2005
I use a 4 inch knife for all flat seams. Try to load the knife generously and apply an even amount of mud in one pass. Any other size knife will not fit in the factory bevels, which should be together at all your butt joints. For inside corners, I use a 12 inch knife to apply mud, and a 4 inch knife to embed tape. Load your knife modestly, apply the mud parallel to the corner; starting in close and pulling away. About 2 1/2 inches of mud tapering from 1/16 inch thick to nothing will do. You will get 12 inches of mud on at a time. I personally do the ceiling first - about 8 feet per run, then I return to the starting point and do the wall. Fold your tape down the center and press it into the corner. Use your 4 inch knife to embed the tape. Try to move in the same direction when embedding tape. Embed the whole run to the ceiling, then the wall. Uniformity in your taping saves a lot of bubbling and creasing.
