Turn off the water at the water-supply valve. These are usually under the sink (or in the wall behind the shower assembly - often in a closet behind a removable panel). If there are no localized shutoffs, use the main water shutoff for the building.
Step2
Open the faucets to let water in the lines drain before beginning disassembly of the faucet.
Step3
Remove the faucet handle; virtually all handles are fixed with a screw, which may be hidden under a decorative cap that can be pried off with a small screwdriver. Remove the screw, then lift or jiggle the handle off.
Step4
Loosen the locknut inside with a crescent wrench. Once the nut is loosened and removed, pull out the stem. (With some types of faucets, the stem itself may be threaded into the body of the faucet assembly. It may be a left-handed thread - which means you'll have to turn it counter-clockwise to loosen and remove it.)
Step5
Find the rubber washer at the stem's bottom. The washer may be held in place with a small screw; if so, remove the screw.
Step6
Replace with a new washer. Take the stem to your local hardware or plumbing supply store to pick out the proper-fitting replacement washer.
Step7
Reassemble the stem and faucet assembly in reverse order.
Step8
Turn the water supply back on and test for drips.
Tips & Warnings
As you take the unit apart, lay out the parts on a clean surface in the order in which they were removed.
If the faucet still leaks after you've replaced the washer, you may have to replace the valve seat, which requires a special wrench. The valve seat is located below the stem and can be accessed when the stem is removed.
If one washer needs to be replaced, replace them all now.
When working with chrome or brass fixtures, protect the surfaces from tools with a piece of leather, heavy cloth or duct tape.
on 11/22/2005
You may find (like I did) that the nut to remove the stem is too deep in the wall or behind the fiberglass shower enclosure to get to with a Crescent wrench. If this is the case, you can buy a set of wrenches at your local hardware store to reach the nut. Cost is only about $12 for the set, and while you'll most likely never use the entire set, it's still cheaper than paying a plumber.
on 10/1/2007
On some compression or stem type faucets, the seat in the faucet body is not replaceable. Corrosion and wear can damage these seats and cause a faucet to drip even after replacing the stem washer. An easy to use, inexpensive tool called a faucet seat grinder (or a dressing tool) will fix the seat. The only other option is to replace the entire faucet.
Comments
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 If a part has left hand threads, you would have to turn it
clockwise to remove it, and vice versa.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 You may find (like I did) that the nut to remove the stem is too deep in the wall or behind the fiberglass shower enclosure to get to with a Crescent wrench. If this is the case, you can buy a set of wrenches at your local hardware store to reach the nut. Cost is only about $12 for the set, and while you'll most likely never use the entire set, it's still cheaper than paying a plumber.
Anonymous said
on 10/1/2007 On some compression or stem type faucets, the seat in the faucet body is not replaceable. Corrosion and wear can damage these seats and cause a faucet to drip even after replacing the stem washer. An easy to use, inexpensive tool called a faucet seat grinder (or a dressing tool) will fix the seat. The only other option is to replace the entire faucet.