How to Make Compost

No garden is complete without a compost pile! Compost is a soil conditioner, mulch and fertilizer all wrapped into one. It feeds the soil microorganisms that help plants stay healthy, adds nutrients to the soil, and helps clay soil drain better and sandy soil retain water. Plus, composting reduces your contribution to the waste stream by recycling yard and kitchen waste into the world's best soil amendment. Here's how to build a pile that breaks down fast and never smells bad.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Spading fork
• Green material (i.e. grass clippings)
• Brown material (i.e. dry leaves)
• Shovel
• Hose

1. Choose a site that is handy to your garden and kitchen, yet out of plain sight.

2. You don't need a bin to make compost—a pile of leaves, grass clippings and other yard wastes will do—but a bin keeps the compost contained and looks neater. You can corral compost in a simple wire column made from a 4-foot wide by 8-foot long piece of stiff wire mesh.

3. You can also buy a more permanent bin or build a three-bin compost system made from slatted wood or recycled pallets. Leave the bins open on one side so you can add compost materials and turn the pile easily. Cover the top of the bins with a sheet of plywood if you live in a very rainy climate. A three-bin system allows you to turn the compost from one bin to another and store finished compost until you are ready to use it.

4. The two basic elements that make up compost are green garden debris (grass clippings or old annuals) and brown garden derbis (dry leaves). Green ingredients are high in nitrogen and brown materials are high in carbon. Adding too many greens can make the pile smell bad. Do not add animal waste, meats, oils, dairy, diseased plants, weeds that have gone to seed, or plants treated with pesticides or herbicides to your compost.

5. Compost piles with a balance of one part green to two part brown materials break down fastest. The easiest way to achieve this balance is to add one garden forkful of green material to the pile, top it with two forkfuls of brown material, and mix them together. Continue adding greens and browns until the pile is at least 3 cubic feet (3 ft. x 3 ft. x 3 ft.). Piles of this size heat up quickly and break down faster.

6. Add in a shovelful of finished compost or garden soil to help kick start the microbial activity in your pile.

7. Compost also needs the correct amount of moisture to breakdown. Compost with the right moisture level should feel like a damp, wrung-out sponge. Too much moisture can cause temperatures to fall within the pile (and make it smell). Too little moisture slows down the decomposition rate and keeps the pile from heating up. Check your compost pile's moisture level once a week and adjust it if necessary by adding water to increase moisture or more browns to help dry the pile out.

8. Turn the pile once a week to move material from the outside of the pile in. Turning also keeps the pile from compacting, which reduces airflow and slows down decomposition.

9. You should have finished compost in about two months. You'll know your compost is finished when it no longer heats up and you can't identify any of the original materials. The compost should be dark brown, moist and earthy smelling. Dig finished compost into your garden's soil. You can use partially composted material as mulch.

10. You can also build a very basic, passive compost system by simply piling up leaves, grass clippings and other yard waste into a pile in a secluded corner of your yard. The compost will be ready when the original ingredients are unrecognizable, usually in about 6 to 12 months. Compost at the bottom and middle of the pile typically "finishes" first.

Tips & Warnings

• Healthy compost smells pleasantly earthy - turn it more often and add more dry brown matter if yours smells funky.
• Use liquid compost starters - called inoculants - if you have no healthy soil to add at first.
• Water your compost pile only during extended dry weather, and then only enough to moisten it, not drench the contents.
• Many excellent compost systems of varying sizes are available at different price levels.
• Do not compost animal waste, meats, oils, diseased plants or plants treated with weed killers.

Resources

• DigginFood

[iSeeHowNow]

on 9/5/2009 good job! I like that you have included a beginner's edition with step 10...I think I will try this step first as I clean out my shrub beds this fall. :)

[allidawn]

on 8/22/2009 You should always add plenty of "greens" and plenty of "browns" to your compost bin. Examples of "greens": tea bags, grass clippings, veggie peelings, fruit scraps, and coffee grounds. Examples of "browns": cardboard, egg boxes, paper, leaves, hay, twigs, branches and bark. Do NOT put meat, fish, dairy products and cooked veggies in your bin. They will attract unwanted vermin such as rats, mice and cockroaches. You should also keep your compost moist (but not too wet) because vermin prefer dry environments. Also, rats and mice are very shy creatures. If you are concerned some may have found a spot in your compost, visit your compost daily and bang on the sides of it. Your presence will scare off any unwanted visitors. But do not be concerned about fruit flies, worms and slugs, for they are good for the decomposition process.

[skyfreak]

on 8/8/2009 Does it matter what kind of plant stuff you put in the compost? I've heard that adding things like fallen oak leaves makes it too acidic and can kill plants. Opinions?

[pat71896]

on 7/28/2009 I wondered about this!

[lezsays]

on 7/11/2009 These are really cool ideas.