How to Remove Unsightly Facial Hair

Dr. Stuart Kaplan is one of the most eminent dermatologists in the U.S., with a Beverly Hills practice packed with Oscar-, Grammy- and Emmy-winning stars and his own skin care and beauty product line, Kaplan MD. Among his many services, Kaplan has been offering laser hair removal since such devices were approved by the FDA in 1998, and his clinic was one of the first to offer the more advanced laser treatment for those with darker skin tones.

He spoke to eHow about the various methods of facial hair removal -- and the pros and cons of each.

eHow: What’s the best method of facial hair removal?

Stuart Kaplan: That would have to be laser, but if the hair is gray, white or very long, laser is not as effective as, say, waxing -- so it really varies on the hair type, the age and, of course, cost is a factor. If the hair has color and cost is not a factor, then laser is the best form of removal for facial hair.

eHow: What are the drawbacks to waxing the face?

SK: Waxing pulls the hair out from the root, and sometimes people can get folliculitis, which is inflammation of the hair follicle. Secondly, if someone has sensitive or very thin skin, there have been cases where some skin has been removed with the hair.

Ingrown hairs are an issue, too. But it depends on what type of hair you have. If you have thick, curly hair or coarse hair, as it grows back, it grows in a different direction and sometimes doesn’t come directly through the skin. It then starts to grow and coil under the skin and works like a splinter. This leads to red bumps that sometimes develop pus. You have to then find the hair and remove it. Ingrown hairs and folliculitis are the two biggest drawbacks to waxing, plus it can also be painful. Also, long-term, it ends up being expensive, as it’s not permanent.

eHow: What about depilatory creams?

SK: These contain chemicals that break down the proteins in the hairs, dissolving them, but not permanently. Like waxing, these can cause inflammation of the follicles, and wherever there is inflammation, you run the risk of getting a bump or a pimple in that area. The chemicals in these can burn and sting and cause redness. You have to use caution.

eHow: What about prescription hair-reducing creams like VANIQA?

SK: These slow the hair growth and make the hair finer and lighter but don't remove the hair or cause it to fall out. They block enzymes that are needed for hair to grow, but only reduce hair growth. Anyone can try using [a cream like] this, but if you stop using it, the hair will return, and some patients do complain of burning or stinging reactions.

eHow: Is bleaching facial hair a good option?

SK: This is another chemical and, of course, you can’t bleach the hair without having it affect the skin. You will also still see that peach fuzz in the light. It’s still hair, and if it’s thicker hair that’s bleached, it still looks like hair!

eHow: Is electrolysis a good choice?

SK: If your hairs are pale, it can be a good option where laser isn't possible. It works by inserting electrical current into each follicle via a fine needle, essentially "killing" the hair. It has to be done repeatedly to get results, as you need to catch the hair at the right point in its growth cycle.

But electrolysis is very operator-dependent, and problems can arise if the operator uses too much current. It has the same risks as waxing, such as inflammation, but it can also cause scarring. Also, if you have darker skin, it can cause increased or decreased pigmentation. As with any method of removal, everybody grows more hairs on the face as they get older, so you may need to go back for touch-ups.

eHow: How does laser removal work?

SK: Laser targets the pigment in the hair and heats that up, "deactivating" the hair, without heating up the rest of the skin. Light is absorbed by darker colors, and the laser will work with more intensity on darker hair. The ideal candidate has pale skin and dark hair, so if your hair has pigment but isn’t really dark, it won’t work as effectively, and it may take longer to see results.