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Step 1
Watch where other surfers get in the water, and observe the route they use to paddle out.
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Step 2
Strap your leash to the ankle you position at the back of your board when you're in your surfing stance, but hold the slack so you don't trip as you get into the water.
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Step 3
Wade into the water until you're thigh- or waist-deep and getting washed by the "soup."
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Step 4
Hold your board beside you, out of the water, and lift the tip over each successive wave while you wait for a lull between big waves.
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Step 5
Jump onto your board and start paddling freestyle, using your arms one at a time, when you think the "set," or the big waves, are momentarily through.
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Step 6
Paddle as fast as you can, especially if the next set looks big, and consider your three options when a wave breaks in front of you: duck dive, turtle roll or bail (see related eHow: "Duck Dive When Surfing."








Comments
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 If longboarding, paddle out on your knees. When the white water comes just stand up on your board, facing front and you'll go right over it. Make sure you dont fall or lose your board, or locals will take advantage. I wouldn't recommend doing this if the waves are over 6 foot.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 If the height of the approaching whitewater is shorter than the length of your arms, try doing a push-up as it hits and at the same time kick your legs up off the board. Your board will pass underneath the whitewater while your body skims over the top.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 When first learning your surfing moves, stay out of the way of experienced surfers. They are usually there for a short time and are there for "serious" rides. Lots of bad blood is caused by mixing experience levels. Mahalo.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 If no one's behind you, slide off the side of the board and hold onto it up near the nose. Swim under the wave and scramble back onto the board when it has passed. Be sure to hold onto it - nothing says "kook" faster than a loose board.