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How to Equalize a Rock Climbing Anchor With a Figure Eight Knot

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By eHow Contributing Writer
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Building a properly equalized anchor is an essential rock climbing skill. The figure eight knot is solid, fast way of equalizing a rock climbing anchor. Its advantages include simplicity, speed and ease of use; its sole disadvantage is that it cannot adjust on its own for pulls in different directions.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • 2 or more solid anchor points
  • Carabiners
  • Slings in a variety of lengths
  • Climbing rope
  1. Step 1

    Select at least two solid anchor points. These could be trees, large rocky protuberances, heavy-duty bolts in the rock, or rock climbing gear like nuts and cams properly placed in cracks. If you are placing your own rock climbing gear, make sure you have the proper training.

  2. Step 2

    Clip a carabiner to each anchor point. If you're using trees or rocky protuberances, you will need to tie or wrap a sling around the tree or rock, then clip a carabiner to that. Verify that the sling is solidly placed and will not come undone when weighted.

  3. Step 3

    Verify that your anchor points are solid and secure.

  4. Step 4

    Attach a sling to each carabiner, then gather the slings together in the anticipated direction of pull. You might need to adjust the lengths of the slings with overhand knots, or use different slings, to make them all come together evenly and at an acute angle.

  5. Step 5

    Tie a "figure eight on a bight" knot using all the slings, a few inches from the point they all come together. This is perfect for two or even three slings; using more may make the knot impossibly bulky. The slings should come evenly together, then the knot, then a loop below the knot.

  6. Step 6

    Put a screw-lock carabiner through every strand of the loop formed at the "end" of the knot. Clip your rock climbing rope through this carabiner and screw it shut. Verify that when you tug on the rope from the direction you intend to climb, the slings all pull evenly and distribute the weight equally between the anchor points.

  7. Step 7

    Double-check your anchor periodically as you climb. Be aware that if you climb and thus pull on the rope from a different direction, you may need to adjust the anchor.

Tips & Warnings
  • Remember to keep double-checking that the anchor is still oriented properly to the direction of pull. Always test your anchor to be sure it is secure and will hold weight before trusting your life to it.
  • Always check that your carabiners are properly oriented. The gates should not rub against anything that might cause them to come unexpectedly unclipped.
  • Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. Serious injury or death can occur, even when the proper safety precautions have been followed. Never climb alone, always double-check your knots, gear and anchors, and always seek expert guidance.
  • Never use a twist-lock or auto-lock carabiner in an anchor; they are prone to unexpectedly coming unclipped.
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