How to Tie a Cordalette Sling

The cordalette, or cordelette, is a staple item in every climber's rack. Usually the cordalette is tied into what is known as a prussik loop or sling. It is vital that you tie a cordalette sling correctly. Some climbers use a double fisherman's bend, but most consider the triple fisherman's to be most appropriate for the loads and forces involved.

Instructions

    • 1

      Lay your cordalette out and overlap the ends of it to make a continuous loop.

    • 2

      Wrap one of the ends around its partner three full times, then pass the wrapping end back through the coils you made and pull snug. There should be several inches of cordalette "tail" left over after tying the knot.

    • 3

      Repeat with the other side, wrapping it around its partner. Then pass the end you were wrapping with back through its own coils and pull snug.

    • 4

      Tug on the sling to bring the knots together. They should be neat, tidy, tight and identical to each other.

    • 5

      Tie a stopper knot--a single overhand--with each loose end of the sling. It serves to help keep the double fisherman's knots from untying as they are subjected to the repeated load-unload-load cycle of rock climbing. If there is not enough cordalette left over to tie a stopper knot, the original fisherman's knot is not safe and needs to be retied.

Tips & Warnings

  • The resources link shows an animated double fisherman's bend. The triple fisherman's bend is almost exactly the same; just wrap three times instead of two.

  • Double-check your fisherman's knot from time to time to make sure it is still well-tied.

  • Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. Always double-check your knots and gear and never climb alone. It is vital to double-check your knots or, even better, have an expert climber or guide do so.

  • Whether this, or any knot should be used to tie Dyneema or Spectra cord is hotly contested by rock climbers. Use your own good judgment and err on the side of caution. It's best to use cordalette made of nylon or Perlon.

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