How to Tie a Double Friction Hitch

The prusik knot is a double-friction hitch knot used by mountain, rock and ice climbers in the ascent. It's known as a friction hitch because while the knot slides easily upward along its cord with no friction, it grips the cord and does not move when friction, or weight, is present. It's useful for vertical rescue work due to its ability to lock when weight is applied.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• 2 lines of rope or cord

1. Lay one piece of rope or cord straight up and down. In climbing, this is the vertical line.

2. Bend the second piece of rope into a "U" shape. Slide the "U" under the vertical rope so it lies perpendicular to the vertical line.

3. Wrap both ends of the perpendicular line once around the vertical line. Pull both ends through the loop created by the "U" of the perpendicular line.

4. Fold both ends of the perpendicular line back over the vertical line. Pull them through the loop created by the "U" of the perpendicular line. This creates the doubling of the knot.

5. Tighten the knot.

6. Try moving the knot up the vertical line. Place sudden tension or weight on the ends of the vertical line to see how the knot moves without weight and hitches tightly when weight is applied.

7. Practice the knot until you can tie it quickly and confidently. In an emergency, this is an essential knot to know.