How to Follow a Knitting Pattern
When you first look at a knitting pattern the combinations of abbreviations and shorthand makes the pattern read like a foreign language. With the following basic tips you should be able to decipher most patterns into plain English and move into more complex stitch combinations--and expand your knitting horizons.
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Instructions
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Start by reading the pattern completely. Even if it doesn't make sense at first, having looked it over will make the pieces start to fit once you begin looking up the various elements.
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Choose your size and circle each instance it's used in the pattern. Anything with multiple sizes should have a base size or measurement followed by several other sizes in parentheses.
Example: XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X)
Usually this will be followed by similarly formatted numbers that indicate a certain measurement you can judge the patterns by.
Example: 32 (36, 39, 43, 47, 50)
So if the numbers are a chest measurement and yours is closest to 39 (Medium), any section where a number of stitches or in-project measurement is given you would use the second number in parentheses as you work through.
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Working a gauge swatch means casting on and knitting about 40 stitches in the recommended yarn and needle combination until you've reached 40 rows or 4 inches. Then you measure in the center of the piece to find out how many stitches and rows it takes to knit an inch each way. If your gauge is larger (fewer stitches per inch) than the pattern calls for, then you should look into a smaller needle size or thinner yarn; the opposite is true if your gauge is too small.
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Know your abbreviations. Many magazines or pattern books will have a small glossary in the back. If not, or you're working on a pattern from a website without a guide, having a stitch reference nearby will make the translation easier as well as help explain the stitches you might be unfamiliar with. Here are some common ones:
CO = Cast On (be aware that some patterns will call for specific methods)
k = Knit, p = purl; k or p followed by a number means knit or purl that many stitches
yo = yarn over; wrap the yarn around the needle once before going on to the next stitch
k2tog = knit 2 together, likewise for p2tog, purl 2 stitches together at once
sl = slip; move the stitch from the left needle to the right without knitting or purling
ssk = slip, slip, knit; slip the next two stitches from one needle to the other, put the left needle into the front of both the stitches just slipped and knit them together
m1 = make 1; an increase where you dip your needle into the bar between the stitches and knit into it
rs = right side or the front (f) of the work
ws = wrong side or the back (b) of the work
St st = Stockinette stitch which is worked by knitting the right side and purling the wrong
bo = bind off -
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Pattern repeats will be written inside of asterisks (*). So if you see a line of instructions that reads:
k1, *p2, k5, p2*, k1You would knit the first stitch and then repeat the next 9 stitches (p2, k5, p2) until you got to the last stitch of the row which you would knit. This comes up a lot in lace work.
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Most items are knit in parts. So this means you could knit the front and back of an item separately, along with sleeves, pockets and other pieces before putting them all together. Paying attention to row counts or lengths is crucial if you want these pieces to match up in the end, so highlight the numbers and measure often.
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Tips & Warnings
Pick a pattern with a diagram if you work best visually. It will help make sense of the pattern if you can see where you're going.
