Things You'll Need:
- Lead free clay
- Lead free glaze
- An available kiln
- Stamping molds
- Rolling pin (for slab platter)
-
Step 1
First, decide whether to use self-hardening clay or kiln firing. If your platter will not be used for serving foods, self-hardening clay will allow you to avoid the expense of having something kiln fired. Either way, make sure your clay is lead free.
-
Step 2
Decide whether to use the slab method or the coil method to make your platter. A slab will be sturdier, but a coil platter may be more interesting. Coil platters will require a great deal more smoothing to make, and are more likely to break apart during firing.
-
Step 3
For a coil platter, roll clay into "snakes," about a half inch in diameter. Begin with a small oval of coils, being sure to push the coils together closely as you go. Build up until the platter is as large as you need it to be. Take a little water and rub the spaces between the coils until they blend together smoothly. You should only just barely be able to see the coil lines when you finish, if at all. Allow your platter to dry until it is "leather hard."
-
Step 4
For a slab platter, roll out clay until it is a half inch thick. Trim the slab to the shape you want your platter to be. Using your hands or a smoothing tool, shape the edges so that they are smooth instead of looking "cut." If you like, you may use a stamping tool to make a pattern on the clay. You may even use objects from around the house with interesting textures and shapes to imprint the slab. Allow to dry until it is "leather hard."
-
Step 5
Fire your pieces if they are to go into a kiln. If you have used self hardening clay, check your piece for any rough spots and use a wet sponge to smooth them out. Allow piece to dry completely before painting or glazing.The first firing of a kiln piece takes it to what is called the "greenware," stage. At this stage, the piece is still easily broken, but can be given additional smoothing, applications of "slip," which is clay thinned with water, or it can be given its first coats of glaze. At this stage, only flat glazes are applied. Glossy glaze is used after firing.Apply glaze one coat at a time, then let dry. Be sure to "cross hatch," with your brush when applying glaze, to ensure that there are no missed spots. Cross hatching means stroking your brush in an "x," as you paint, rather than using smooth strokes.Apply at least two coats of flat glaze before firing.
-
Step 6
After your piece has had its first and second firings, apply glossy glaze and fire for the final time. If a piece breaks during firing, you can sometime repair it with slip. If not, break it up and use it in your next batch of clay.
