How To

How to Tie a Klemheist Friction Hitch

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By eHow Contributing Writer
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The Klemheist friction hitch is a useful rock climbing knot. You use it to tie a sling or cordalette onto a climbing rope. You can then attach other equipment can them be attached to the sling or cordalette as appropriate. This kind of hitch is often used as an additional safety measure for rappelling or abseiling or for ascending a climbing rope.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Cordalette loop or webbing sling
  • Climbing rope
  1. Step 1

    Wrap the cordalette loop or webbing sling neatly around your rock climbing rope where you'd like to attack the hitch. Wrap from the top down relative to the direction you expect to pull, leaving a small loop sticking out at the top. Make the wraps neat and close to each other without any slack.

  2. Step 2

    Make at least three wraps around the rope; this is the minimum for a safe hitch knot. Wrapping more than three times makes for a stronger hitch, but in some cases that may cause more inconvenience than benefit because it is harder to move a hitch up and down the rope, when it's been wrapped too many times.

  3. Step 3

    Pull the remainder of your cordalette or sling up through the small loop you left, and then back down in the direction of the anticipated pull. When you tug on the remainder of the cordalette loop, the Klemheist hitch should tighten on the rope and freeze in place. Relax your pull and the hitch should relax too so that you can move it up and down on the rope.

  4. Step 4

    Dress the knot by neatening and tightening it so there is no slack. This also makes it both stronger and easier to untie once you're done with it. Now you're ready to use the hitch. You can clip a carabiner through the protruding loop and use it to attach almost anything to your Klemheist hitch.

Tips & Warnings
  • The Klemheist hitch can hold more weight than an autoblock hitch, but less weight than a prussik hitch.
  • Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. Injury or death can occur. Always double-check your knots and equipment and never climb alone. It is best to climb in the company of expert climbers or guides that can help you learn new skills in the safest manner possible.
  • Redundancy is a very important concept for rock climbers. Never trust your life to just one knot or one isolated piece of equipment. Always have a backup or redundant system in place so that on the rare occasion something fails, the backup can save your life.

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