How To

How to Tie a Prussik Friction Hitch

By eHow Sports & Fitness Editor
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The prussik is a useful rock climbing hitch knot. You can use it to backup a rappel or abseil, ascend a rope or rig pulleys and more. There are a number of variations on this simple hitch, but it's best to start learning with the basic prussik, practice and master it, then branch out from there.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Climbing rope
  • Cordalette sling or loop
  1. Step 1

    Lay your sling out flat. Lay the part of the rope you'd like to attach the sling to straight on top of the sling. There should be one half-loop of the sling showing on either side of the rope.

  2. Step 2

    Wrap one half-loop of the sling around the rope, passing inside the other half loop. That "other" half loop will stay untouched for now.

  3. Step 3

    Repeat Step 2. Continue wrapping the sling around the rope, with each wrap passing inside the original "other" half loop, and being layered onto the rope inside the previous wraps. The number of times you wrap the rope determines the holding strength of the hitch. Most climbers make at least three wraps for a prussik hitch. Wrapping it more times makes it stronger, but harder to move up and down the rope.

  4. Step 4

    Tighten the hitch by tugging on the loop you were wrapping with. The "other" loop that each successive wrap passed through, should tighten up against the wraps you made and help to hold them in place.

  5. Step 5

    Test the hitch to make sure it grips the rope properly. Pulling on the loop that sticks out--the loop you were wrapping with--should make the hitch "grab" the rope. Unweight the loop and you should be able to move the hitch up and down the rope again.

Tips & Warnings
  • You should use a cordalette sling, not a webbing sling, to tie a prussik hitch.
  • Although often referred to as a knot, the prussik is actually a hitch or hitch knot.
  • Prussik, prusik and prussic are all valid spellings of the same hitch.
  • Redundancy is a vital climbing concept that will save your life. Never depend on just one knot or hitch to hold you up--always use at least one backup. Some situations may warrant additional backup knots, hitches or techniques.
  • Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. Always double-check your knots and equipment and never climb alone.

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