How to Use Carabiners

Carabiners are simple, ingenious inventions that, when used properly, can help secure a human being, dangling from a fully exposed rock face or a job site on a building. Palm-sized or smaller, carabiners are nothing but oblong loops where part of a long side opens inward as a gate, to allow the entry of climbing gear. Here’s how to make sure your trust in the handy carabiner is justified.

Instructions

    • 1

      Wear a climbing harness and be certain that its front loop is inside the carabiner that will connect it to the rope. Most climbers rely on partners to double-check their assembly.

    • 2

      Insert the rope's pulley into the same carabiner.

    • 3

      After both components are inside the carabiner, the gate is allowed to close outward so that it is in line with the remainder of the loop.

    • 4

      Nonlocking carabiners require no further action. The gate moves only in an inward direction.

    • 5

      In locking carabiners, the gate also moves in an inward direction only. As an additional safety measure, however, a metal sleeve is screwed over the gate opening. This is a simple action, requiring a few quick twists with one’s fingers.

Tips & Warnings

  • In recreational climbing, the rope will lead from your harness, through an attachment point on the rock face, and back down to a person “on belay,” the climbing partner who is prepared to stop the flow of the rope should you let go of the rock.

  • If working at a height or performing a lead climb, you may establish your own attachment points for the rope, using bolts you place to limit the amount of slack.

  • Imitation carabiners are sold as novelty items, especially for use as keyrings. These are not designed as weight-bearing safety equipment, and most are printed with warnings that say so.

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