How to Build a Cyclone Fence

Learn to build a heavy duty, chain link fence.

Things You'll Need

• Protective gloves
• boots
• eye protection
• a partner to work with
• chain link fence (length desired)
• barbed wire

Instructions

Build your cyclone fence with a partner

1. It is recommended that you acquire an aerial map. You can get an aerial map from: * The U.S. Soil Conservation Service * The U.S. Agriculture Stabilization and Conservation Service * The Agricultural Extension Service, or * An aerial survey firm listed in the telephone directory

2. Now you should lay out an effective land use plan that depicts natural land areas as well as working or living areas. Figure the current and anticipated fencing necessities.

3. Determine the cost of your project. Neighbors may share in the cost of building or replacing boundary fences. Cost-share assistance from the U.S. Department of Agriculture may be available as well. Check with your county's Agriculture Stabilization and Conservation Office.

4. Sketch out your fence needs to the same scale as your land use plan. Figure how many linear feet your fence will be. For greater accuracy, run a measured string along your planned fence line. Sum the total length minus gate openings. Fencing is sold by the rod, 80 rods or 1,320 feet per roll.Sketch a fencing plan based on the aerial map and your land use plan. You'll need to determine linear feet for the fence, minus the gate openings, and find the best position for your fence line. A good idea is to use string to measure out a planned fence line.

5. Determine the most cost-effective materials and methods for construction, by considering what type of livestock you have, how rough the earth is, and anything else that may be a factor in the construction of your fence. You can use barbed wire (2-point or 4 point wires) and/ or woven wire (visible and good barrier for livestock).

6. Invest in the longevity of your fence by purchasing protective coating. Class 1 galvanizing is the bare minimum protective coating for most barbed wire. It is recommended that you use Class 3 galvanizing for high tensile wire.

7. Lay out your fence line. Set your flagged 6' stakes at each end of where the fence will be. Tell your partner to stand at one of the stakes. Starting from opposite ends, set down 3' stakes every 100'.

8. If you have corners on flat ground (spans of 165' or less), you will use single span assembly. If you have rolling ground (spans of 165' or less) you will use braced line assemblies. Your double span assemblies are used for corners and when spans reach up to 600'.

9. Position the assembly by sighting down your newly created fence line. Dig the post holes 42" deep. Use a level or plumb bob.Fit the horizontal brace post between the upright posts. Fasten it to the uprights 6-8 inches below the post tops with steel dowels drilled into both the horizontal and upright posts. Corner and then wrap the brace wire around the posts two times. Staple the wire at the bottom of the anchor post and at the top of the brace post. Finally tighten the brace wire with a pressure-treated and fasten it permanently.

10. Run a single strand of barbed wire along the ground between the anchor posts at each end of the distance to be spanned and tighten. Use this strand as your guide for keeping the posts in a straight line.Decide on the spacing dictated by both fence style and the prevailing wind, weed and snow problems for your area. If wind blows heavy weeds like Russian thistle against your fence, or if you receive heavy snows, place wooden posts and steel tee-posts not more than 20 ft. apart. In moist areas, 20-ft. metal post spacing can be used with every third or fourth post made of wood. In some areas, 20-ft. post spacing with fence stays used between the posts is recommended.Fencing techniques vary widely from area to area, but with Gaucho high tensile barbed wire you can save time and money. Move your line posts farther apart than you can with standard barbed wire.

11. If you must cross a depressed area, set a post at the bottom of the depression and brace it down. If water often runs through the depression, make the fence conform to the land with a buried dead weight.Protect against electrical shock when using wooden posts by building a fence ground every 150 ft. Keep fence stays no lower than 3-4 inches below the bottom line of your fence.

Set up posts

1. Dig holes, 24-30 inches into the earth.

2. Set each post in one of the holes. As you fill the wholes with dirt, pack the dirt after each shovelful.

3. For better posts use a combination of sand and pea gravel for tamping your posts.

The Gaucho Barbed Wire Fence

1. Starting at the bottom, fasten one strand to the anchor post (mind the correct height). Wrap the strand 3 times around the post, and then splice it back on itself. Wrap about five times and staple.

2. Release about 2 strands of wire on the side you want the fence. Work one span at a time between a corner and braced assembly.

3. Make a dummy post in case you should need to temporarily attach your wire stretcher. If you run out of reel for your fence, just add more by folding the ends of the old and new fence onto each other. Secure the ends with pliers.

4. Tighten the strand. Walk the line of the fence to free it from obstructions. Starting midway, fasten each strand to its post, and have your partner work up toward one of the ends, while you work your way toward the other.

5. Use fence stays at 10' intervals to strengthen the entire fence.

Tips & Warnings

• Work with a partner. Plan in advance all the gear and supplies you'll need. Mind the weather if necessary.