How to Make a Gusset Flap For a Purse

Gussets allow purses or bags to hold more stuff (or wider items) and collapse flat when they’re not in use. To keep things from falling out of the purse, you can cover the top with a flap. You can vary the size of this basic gusseted purse to make it as small as a wallet or as large as a tote bag. Use 1/4 inch seam allowance for each seam.

Things You'll Need

• 1/2 yard of fabric
• Matching thread
• 1 yard strap material
• Measuring tape
• Scissors
• Straight pins
• Iron
• Ironing board
• Sewing machine
• Large snap
• Hand-sewing needle

Instructions

Make a Purse with Gussets

1. Cut two pieces of fabric, each 8 inches tall and 10 inches wide. These will be the front and back of the purse.

2. Cut two pieces of fabric, each 3 wide by 8 inches tall. Fold each piece in half from top to bottom and press it flat, then unfold it. These will be the gussets on the sides of the purse.

3. Cut one piece of fabric 3 by 10 inches. This will be the bottom of the purse.

4. Lay the front of the purse right side up. Pin the two gussets right side down on top of it, lining up the outer edges. Sew the gussets to the front and press the seams flat.

5. Pin the back of the purse and the gussets right sides together, lining up the outer edges. Stitch the back to the each side, then press the seams flat.

6. Pin the bottom of the purse to the lower edge of the front, back and gussets with the fabric right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the purse in place.

7. Fold the top edge of the purse over 1/2 inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press the fold flat. Fold the top edge over again and press the fold flat, then topstitch along the fold.

8. Turn the purse right side out.

Make the Flap

1. Cut a piece of fabric 8 inches high and 10 inches wide. This will be the flap that covers the top of the purse.

2. Fold this piece in half from top to bottom, right sides together. Stitch along the sides, leaving the edge opposite the fold open.

3. Turn the open edges over 1/2 inch and press them flat. Turn the flap right side out.

4. Line up the folded edge of the flap with the top edge of the back of the purse. Pin them together, making sure you catch both layers of the flap in the pins.

5. Sew the flap to the top edge of the purse, making sure you don’t sew the purse closed.

6. Place the stud (bumpy half) of the snap near the top edge of the open flap. Sew it in place like you would a button.

7. Place the socket (indented half) of the snap on the front of the purse, making sure to line it up with the snap on the flap when it is closed. Sew the snap in place, taking care not to sew the purse closed.

8. Stitch the ends of the strap to the upper edges of the back of the purse, taking care not to sew the purse closed.

Tips & Warnings

• You can find strap material in the trim section of most fabric stores.

• Use caution when working with scissors, pins, irons, sewing machines and sewing needles.