How to Eat Like a Local in Fez, Morocco

Eating in Fez, Morocco

Fez is the soul of Morocco. It is the oldest Islamic city in the world, and its busy city streets, labyrinth of an old medina and Fassi culinary offerings have this charming medieval city bursting at its seams. You’ll get lost, you’ll get confused and you’ll probably even have a moment of sheer panic while exploring this wonderful city, but one thing you will not have is hunger. Moroccan food is not only easy to come by, but it’s served in copious amounts; just when you think the meal is over another dish arrives. From cheap eats at the many street vendors to the lavish palace restaurants, Fez certainly earns its designation as one of the culinary capitals of North Africa. Here’s how to eat like the locals do in Fez, Morocco.

Things You'll Need

• City Map
• Map of Old Medina
• Camera
• Money (Moroccan dirham)
• Safe place to keep money and camera

Instructions

1. When in Fez, you must eat in the old medina. Head into this complex web for a light breakfast before you begin your explorations. Stop at one of the cheaper restaurants in the souk like Kasbah, with its great views of the medina, or Medina Cafe, which is a more comfortable option for women who are traveling alone.

2. If you’re traveling in a larger group, plan an evening at the Palais Jamai and attempt to tackle the Fassi specialty, which is the 12-salad starter. You really do need a large group in order to tackle this extraordinary Moroccan tradition, but if you can pull it off, you’ll be very pleased.

3. Don’t waste time on a big lunch. While exploring the ancient maze that is Fez, you’ll need to spend your daylight hours exploring. Stop at one of the street stalls or many vendors lining the medina and grab something to go. Maakoudas (spiced fried potatoes smothered in tangy tomato sauce between bread) are cheap eats at their very best.

4. For the best meal for your money, book a table at Dar Dmana in the Batha area. The Batha area is on the edge of the medina, so you’ll get a much-needed break from the busy streets of Fez. Dar Dmana’s chef, Hiatt, is a well-known chef in Fez, and his meals are prepared with a delicate respect for Fassi flavors.

5. La Maison Bleue is a converted family house and world-famous for its romantic setting. The menu here represents the best of the best from the Fassi cuisine. It is five-stars excellence. The menu changes daily, but each dish is authentic and well-prepared. La Maison Bleue is a more expensive option in Fez. Dinner for two will cost about $120.

6. Africa is well-known for its fresh fruits, and the fruit vendors in Fez will have you spitting on the fruit you have at home. There is nothing comparable to an African orange, and the fresh strawberries here are also sure to be coveted. After you cram yourself full of a maakouda, take your leftover change and buy some fresh fruit. You’ll never want to eat fruit anywhere else again.

7. For the gourmet in you, there are some wonderful cooking classes available. These classes take you into the heart of the medina to purchase fresh ingredients, and then teach you how to prepare traditional Moroccan meals in one of the beautifully restored guesthouses. You get the best of both worlds, a medina exploration and traditional Fassi food. After you’ve prepared your meal, you get to enjoy it in a beautiful Moroccan-styled patio or sundeck.

8. Honey probably isn't the first thing you think of when you enter the old city of Fez, but honey is exactly the thing you should seek, and in the sun-bleached courtyard of Fondouk Kaat Smen is where you’ll find your honey heaven. The wild honey here carries a bit of a price tag, but with over 17 rare varieties and the almost mythic quality of its purveyors, it’s well worth the extra penny.

Tips & Warnings

• When you hear the old medina being referred to as a labyrinth, this is not an exaggeration, so take care to not get frustrated and overwhelmed. Let yourself merge with the flow of the traffic. If you don't fight it, it will not fight you.

• Vendors will often only charge you for your drink when you order food at a stall, so don't be alarmed when your meal is incredibly cheap. This is part of the tapas tradition that has migrated from southern Europe.

• Doormen at the many madernas and mosques will be helpful with directions, guidance and even historical facts, but they do expect a small tip for their services. Be respectful by handing over a couple dirhams for their time.

• Ask the staff at your hotel or riad for advice on food. Most of the industry employees are locals here and will know the best hidden gems when it comes to traditional eats.

• Make sure that your important belongings are in a safe place. The words "busy" and "touristic" breed pickpockets, and there are professionals working in these areas.