Things You'll Need:
- Line wrenches to loosen copper (or steel) coolant lines
- Long extension for socket wrenches
- Remote starter switch
- Container for nuts and bolts
- Standard set of hand tools: wrenches, sockets, etc., in standard and/or metric (depending what kind of car you have)
- Transmission jack (if you do not think your regular floor jack will handle the transmission)
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Step 1
Park vehicle on a flat, swept surface.
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Step 2
Jack up the car enough to allow you to remove the old transmission and slide the new one in place. Support it with jack stands. Put the car in neutral.
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Step 3
Loosen the drive shaft at the rear end. Usually u-bolts will be holding the universal joint to the rear end. Loosen the u-bolts. When the second u-bolt is loose, pry the drive shaft toward the front of the car until it clears the little ears on the rear end housing. After the rear of the drive shaft drops down, pull the front out of the transmission.
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Step 4
Loosen the two coolant lines at the transmission (these will be running from the radiator to the transmission). Secure them out of your way so they do not interfere with the removal or reinstallation of the transmission.
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Step 5
Look at the front of the transmission, it should have some type of access cover. The bottom of the torque converter should be visible when this cover is removed . Rotate the motor so that you can take out the nuts holding the torque converter to the flywheel of the motor. Hook your remote starter switch to your starter or solenoid. Stay out from under the car and “bump” your switch to sit if the motor rotates safely. Take your coil wire loose and safely store it so that your motor does not start during this process. Go under the car and “bump” the motor around until you see the torque converter nuts and loosen one at a time.
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Step 6
Loosen the negative battery cable and remove the starter.
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Step 7
Position the jack under the transmission.
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Step 8
Remove all the bolts holding the transmission to the motor. Leave two or three in (finger-tight) that are readily accessible.
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Step 9
Grasp the tail shaft of the transmission and, while shaking it back and forth, pull it toward the rear of the car at the same time. The transmission should come loose from the motor at this time. Remove the finger tight bolts that you left in. Pull the transmission loose from the motor and remove it from under the car at this time.
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Step 10
Whether you are going to rebuild your transmission, or you have bought a factory rebuilt (or new) transmission, it will be necessary to remove your torque converter (the round appliance at the front of the transmission) from the old transmission and install it on the new one. Grasp it, rotate about 90 or so degrees and remove it from the old transmission. Reinstall it the same way. Make sure you hear a locking sound during reinstallation. Pull straight out on it and it should not come out.
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Step 11
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.








Comments
WJHall said
on 12/16/2008 Sorry it took so long to answer, had to find out exactly how to go about it. You probably have had all of your questions answered by another source by now, but in case you haven't, here goes.
1. There is actually no "coolant" in these lines, what is in these lines is transmission fluid which you will replenish after you reinstall the transmission. These lines do run thru coolant while in operation, hence the name.
2. Just make sure they are out of the way so they don't get bent or broken.
3. The torque converter is a large round usually silver item, at the front of the transmission. You will not be able to see all of it until you have removed the transmission from the vehicle.
4. Most torque converters unlock in a clockwise direction, however there are exceptions to every rule. Grasp it turn and pull at the same time. You do not have to pull very hard, and you will feel it unloc
lvscats63 said
on 12/2/2008 Now the engine won't start. I looked under the hood and found the altenator plug disconnected. I did get a new battery for the Explorer, but I need to make sure that all the electrical parts are connected. Where can I find the starter for this Explorer? Is there anything I need to look for to make sure that all the electrical tings are plugged in?
lvscats63 said
on 12/2/2008 I have some questions concerning the article:
1) Will coolant come out when the coolant lines are loosened?
2)Is there a specific place to secure the coolant lines?
3) What is a torque converter and what does it look like?
4) Which way do I turn the torque converter to remove it, clockwise or counter-clockwise?
5)What does a flywheel look like?
6) What does a remote starter look like and does it come with the transmission or do you buy it separately?
7) What do you mean by bumping in your article?
I have a 1995 Rebulit engine Ford Explorer 2 & 4-wheel drive. The transmisson went out on it when my husband's daughter's fiance was driving it. My husband got a transmission from a 1996 Ford Explorer 2-wheel drive from a pull-a-part salvage yard. He took a trusted friend to ensure the transmission was a good one. He got a neighbor to actually change out the transmission. Now the eng