Things You'll Need:
- Phillips and regular screwdrivers
- Adjustable wrench
- Towel to lay pieces out in order of assembly
- White vinegar
- soft cloths
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Step 1
Check the screen that aerates the water that comes out of your faucet. It's held in by an assembly at the end of the faucet. Be careful to cushion this end with a cloth if you need to use a wrench to loosen this ring because you don't want to damage or scratch it. Inside the ring, you'll find a plastic diverter, a black washer to seal the edge and the aeration screen. In areas where water is hard, these screens and the little holes in the plastic diverter clog with minerals and slow the flow of water. Clean or replace the screen and/or the diverter if clogged. If you wonder what they do, turn the faucet on a little bit--water will rush out and splash all over the place.
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Step 2
Check is the control assembly. Take the cap off the faucet lever or knob. There should be a screw that holds the cover on. When you remove it, there will be a "packing nut" that holds the stem in the control assembly. Twist this out and you should be able to lift the stem, ball or cartridge out, depending on the type of control your faucet uses. The gooey black parts are o-rings, seat washers and/or seals. These are the parts that wear and cause leaks. You can easily replace them and reassemble the faucet. Most hardware stores and home centers stock a complete range of sizes of these replaceable parts. They can also frequently replace entire cartridges if there is damage. Be a wise consumer, though--sometimes 'tis less expensive in the long run to to buy a new faucet than replace a stem.
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Step 3
Look for possible replacement parts. Many kitchen sinks are the single-lever ball or cartridge type. These come apart the same way as compression faucets. They are little simpler to work with (fewer parts to drop), but, in the end, you're more likely to need replacement parts beyond o-rings and seals.
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Step 4
If you've replaced the seals or washers, cleaned the screen and diffuser and your faucet is still leaking at it's base, look under the sink. Sometimes the supply line is at fault and needs tightening or new plumber's tape around the connections. Be careful never to over-tighten plumbing connections. Since they operate under pressure, stripped fittings tend to explode.
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Step 5
If your faucet's stopped leaking, but now it clunks when you turn it on or off, call a plumber to check to see if the pressure coming into your house and to this faucet is too high or low. Water utilities provide approximately uniform pressure to customers, but the configuration of plumbing fixtures and water-use patterns in your house will determine how much pressure gets to each control device/faucet. Pressure can also vary according to elevation and neighborhood development. Pressure that is too high or too low causes unusual wear and tear by either pushing or pulling on control assemblies. This problem is easily dealt with--by a professional.



















Comments
pieceofscrap said
on 12/1/2009 Great tips! Thanks for the informative article.
missbeth said
on 11/18/2009 My kitchen faucet has started to drip a bit, so I'll have hubby take a look at it and do the things mentioned in your article! Thanks for sharing! 5*s
DiscountTickets said
on 11/18/2009 Lots of great information about kitchen faucets.
MyJB said
on 11/18/2009 This is an interesting article about faucets. When things go wrong, I do wish I had some knowledge about correcting the problems. Good instructions. Thanks for sharing. 5*
squarix said
on 11/18/2009 This is great for people on a low budget, like me, who can't afford costly sink repairs. Thank you for this. The next time I have an issue, this is exactly how I'll address it. :)