How to Pin Inserts for Skirt Alterations

Inserts allow you to add extra fabric to a skirt to make it larger and more comfortable. Before you can pin inserts to the skirt, you’ll need to measure your waist and the skirt, decide what size to make the inserts and cut them from pieces of matching fabric. The altered skirt will generally look best if you use two small inserts (one on each side) rather than one large insert. (If the skirt has a zipper in the side, however, it’s simpler to just add one insert on the opposite side.) Once you have the inserts ready, you’ll need to make an opening in the skirt and pin the insert to it.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Skirt
• Matching fabric
• Measuring tape
• Scissors
• Iron
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins

Measure and Cut the Inserts

1. Determine how much fabric you need to add by measuring your waist and the skirt. (The skirt should be at least 1 inch larger than your waist for comfort.)

2. To make a waist-only insert, cut a triangle of fabric at least 6 inches tall, with the top (unpointed) end as wide as you want the insert, plus seam allowance. Make sure to add about an inch of extra fabric at the top to make a hem.

3. To alter the waist and hips, cut a strip of fabric as wide as you want the insert plus seam allowance, and two inches longer than the skirt. To alter only the hips, trim the strip so that it tapers to a point at the top.

4. Fold the edge of the insert over 1/2 inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press the fold flat.

5. Fold the edge over 1/2 inch again and press the fold flat. When you sew the insert to the skirt, topstitch across the fold using matching thread.

Pin the Inserts to the Skirt

6. Place the insert on the skirt, lining up the top edge of the insert with the top of the skirt. Mark the bottom of the insert using a pin. (For inserts that will be the entire length of the skirt you can skip this step.)

7. Use a seam ripper to open the seam where you wish to add the insert, as far as the pin marking the bottom of the insert. If the skirt has a waistband, you’ll need to cut open the waistband above the seam.

8. Place the insert and the skirt right sides together.

9. Line up the edge of the insert with the open edge of the skirt. Pin the edge of the insert to the skirt.

10. Flip the insert over.

11. Pin the other edge of the insert to the other edge of the skirt opening, with the fabric right sides together.

12. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for the other insert, if needed.

Tips & Warnings

• You may want to draw a pattern for the insert on a piece of paper first.