How to Match Front and Back Patterns

Some front and back patterns match up exactly, and others don’t quite line up. This could be a design flaw, but most often it’s intentional, since the garment may be designed to have “ease.” This is a little extra room that helps the garment fit and move better when you wear it. If the front or back section is made from more than one piece, you’ll generally want to sew those pieces together first, before matching up the front and back sections.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Cut Out the Pieces

1. Cut out the front and back pattern pieces. Many patterns have more than one cutting line for various sizes, so be sure to follow the line for the size you need on both the front and back.

2. Cut any triangle or double-triangle markings on the edges of the pattern as if they were sticking out from the pattern. These markings can make it easier to line up the front and back pattern pieces.

3. Use a cool (very low-temperature) iron to gently press any wrinkles out of the pattern pieces. This optional step makes the patterns more accurate, which can be helpful in matching them up.

4. Pin the front and back pattern pieces on the fabric following the layout guide in the pattern directions. Be sure to place any pattern pieces on the fold that need to be, and line up the grainline of each piece (usually marked on patterns with an arrow) with the grainline of the fabric.

5. Cut out the front and back pieces of fabric as close to the edges of the patterns as possible.

Match the Front and Back

6. If the front of the garment has more than one section (for example, some dresses and skirts have 3 or 4 pieces that make up the front), place those pieces right sides together and stitch them together using the seam allowance recommended in the pattern directions. Press any seams flat.

7. Repeat Step 1 for the back pieces of the garment if needed.

8. Place the front and back sections right sides together.

9. Line up any triangles or markings you made while cutting out the fabric.

10. Line up the edges of the front and back pieces along the seam you need to sew. For example, line up the pieces for a dress or shirt along the shoulders, and the pieces for pants or a skirt along the waist.

11. Check any seams in the front or back sections to make sure they have the proper seam allowance, if the front and back don’t quite line up.

12. Pin the edges of the front and back pieces together.

13. Pin any seams that are supposed to line up together.

14. Pin the remaining front and back fabric together along the seam. If one piece (often the back) is slightly larger than the other, pin the extra fabric in a little bit at a time, rather than all in one place.

15. Place the fabric in the sewing machine with the piece that is slightly larger on the bottom. This will help ease in the extra fabric.

16. Stitch the front and back sections together slowly, gradually easing in any extra fabric.

Tips & Warnings

• With some patterns, it can be difficult to tell which piece is the front and which is the back. In these cases, you might want to leave the patterns pinned to the fabric pieces after cutting them until you’re ready to start sewing.
• Use caution when working with scissors, pins, irons and sewing machines.