Things You'll Need:
- Treats
- Toys that squeak, rattle or have feathers
- An assistant for beginners
- Tripod and shutter release cable for advanced users
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Step 1
Pick a scene reflecting your pet's perspective and personality. Some thrive on meeting people or having children play nearby while cats, birds and many dog breeds are terrified by noise. Pick a quiet spot with as few people around as possible.
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Step 2
Feed your pet beforehand as animals are less hyper after a meal, especially diabetic pets that are more sensitive to stimulation when blood sugar levels are changing. Walking or playing beforehand prevents accidents and works off nervous energy.
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Step 3
Acclimate your pet to a scene by letting it sniff or walk around for several minutes, especially if a helper sets up the camera.
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Step 4
If you are alone, distract the pet with a toy or treat to help them pose if they are not trained as performance or show animals. This is easy using a tripod, shutter release cable and automatic focus lens for both digital and film cameras. An assistant also can perform this chore. Don't overstimulate an animal by giving too many orders, repeating their name or a command too often, or by making loud noises.
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Step 5
Sun or reflected light is better than flash for a jittery or epileptic pet (strobes induce seizures). On a manual camera, use a high shutter speed (such as 1/400 at 5.6). Point-and-shoot cameras and those with automatic settings have preset shutter/flash speeds.
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Step 6
Shots of pets playing or interacting with humans or other pets are wonderful alternatives to posed shots. Nothing says "joy" like a Siberian husky kissing a baby or a laughing parrot nuzzling its owner. Keep sessions short and never force a pet to "perform."
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Step 7
Shooting pets and scenes seperately, then digitally merging them is great for hyperactive or aggressive pets. Just keep size proportions and lighting in mind to make it look natural.
