How to Pin a Lap Zipper

Lapped zippers use a flap of fabric on one side to cover the zipper teeth, which can work well for delicate fabrics and fancy dresses. Lapped zippers are also often used in the sides of skirts. Most other garments and bags use a centered zipper installation, with small flaps of fabric on both sides. Before you can sew a zipper to a garment, you need to pin it in place.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Garment
• Measuring tape
• Zipper
• Iron
• Straight pins
• Sewing machine
• Thread
• Zipper foot
• Lightweight fusible interfacing (optional)

Prepare the Zipper

1. Measure the opening in the garment.

2. Buy a zipper that’s at least as long as the garment opening, or one to two inches longer. Choose a zipper that’s a good match for the color of the fabric.

3. Take the zipper out of the package.

4. Remove any staples or tags in the zipper.

5. Iron the zipper tape using a cool iron, unless the directions included with the zipper recommend against it. This keeps the zipper flat while you’re pinning it and helps prevent the fabric from bunching up.

How to Pin a Lapped Zipper

6. Sew the garment, including the seams around the opening, following the pattern directions.

7. Set the sewing machine stitch length to the highest number.

8. Baste the edges of the fabric opening together using 5/8 inch seam allowance.

9. Press the seam allowance flat.

10. If the fabric is thin or stretchy, you may want to add lightweight interfacing along the zipper opening. Cut a strip of interfacing the width and length of the seam allowance and fuse it to the seam allowance following the package directions.

11. Place the zipper teeth side down on the seam allowance with the bottom end of the zipper teeth just below the end of the basting.

12. Line up the left edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the left side seam allowance.

13. Pin the left side of the zipper tape to the seam allowance. Do not put the pins through the outer layer of the garment.

14. Attach a zipper foot to the sewing machine. Check the instruction booklet or manufacturer’s website for directions.

15. Stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance 1/4 inch from the outer edge of the zipper tape. Do not stitch through the outer layer of the garment.

16. Turn the zipper over to the left so that it’s face up. This creates a small fold in the seam allowance.

17. Pin the fold in the seam allowance close to the zipper teeth. The zipper is now ready to be topstitched to the garment.

Tips & Warnings

• For best results use many small pins, rather than a few large ones, to hold the zipper in place.
• Seam allowance is the distance between the edge of the fabric and the stitches. Many machines have a seam allowance guide printed on the lower part of the machine to help you as you sew.