Things You'll Need:
- Drip irrigation supplies:
- 1/4" inside diameter rubber tubing with anti-fungal coating
- 1/4" vinyl fittings: T-fittings, L-fittings, on/off control valves, 1/4" vinyl connectors threaded on both ends, 165 degree spray nozzles
- 8-oz or larger plastic drink bottle with screw-on cap
- aquarium safe silicone gel
- suction cups for 1/4" tubing
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Step 1
Determine how much equipment you will need based on:
1) the size of your aquarium -- one spray head for every 10 gallons of water volume (they typically have a 5-7' radius, but on a low pressure RO system it will be reduced).
2) the distance from your aquarium to your RO unit -- you will need to do all the measurements so that you know how much tubing you will need, then add 5 extra feet of tubing.
Parts quantities will vary:
one L-fitting for the sprayer on the end of your rainmaker.
one T-fitting for each additional sprayer in between, and your water line out of your RO unit storage tank.
two suction cups for each sprayer assembly.
one on/off valve close to your aquarium and another one next to your tank.
at least two threaded connectors along with your bottle to create a chemical reactor. -
Step 2
Cut a straight length of tubing slightly shorter than the vertical distance from the substrate to the top, leaving space for the spray nozzle. Connect the spray nozzle and repeat this process for every ten gallons of water in your aquarium.
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Step 3
For the sprayer on the end, add an L-fitting on the bottom; for the first one and the middle ones, add a T-fitting. Cut your tubing to the appropriate lengths so that it will run along the substrate and connect horizontally between the sprayer assemblies.
If you have a 10-gallon tank you should only have one sprayer in the middle. If you have a 20-gallon tank you should have one on each corner. If you have a 30-gallon tank, you should have one in the middle, and one on each end, and so on. -
Step 4
Now add another length of hose to the T-fitting on the first sprayer assembly. This line will be your input line from the RO unit. You should install one on/off control valve near your aquarium, as close to the top as you see fit, to prevent water from siphoning out of your tank when not in use.
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Step 5
Turn off your RO unit and turn off the storage tank. Cut the water line (yes, cut it!) from your storage tank a couple of inches from the tank valve and install a T-fitting, a short (2-3") length of hose, and another on/off control valve. Reconnect your water line to the other end of your T-fitting, close the on/off valve, and turn your RO unit back on. By doing this, you will be able to operate your RO unit, your RO water faucet, and your rainmaker all without disconnecting anything.
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Step 6
Using a hole punch, puncture two very small holes in the drink bottle, one near the top (the output) and the other on the opposite side near the bottom (the input). The holes should be small enough for the threaded connectors to screw in snugly, but wrap the threads in Teflon tape first. Cut your remaining tubing into two lengths, taking care to decide where you want your chemical reactor to be: under your aquarium, near your RO unit, or somewhere in between. Screw the other end of each threaded connector into the two lengths of tubing. You now have a chemical reactor which you can use to dissolve all necessary chemicals and salts before the water even gets to your aquarium.
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Step 7
Generously apply aquarium-safe sealant to the outside connections on the reactor housing. You will need to cover the vinyl connector and the end of the hose completely, taking care to ensure there are no spaces or air bubbles anywhere. You will have to wait 48 hours before testing your connections for leaks.
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Step 8
To test your rainmaker for leaks or to connect your rainmaker for first use, please see my other article on how to operate your rainmaker system, listed below.









Comments
2besure said
on 6/2/2008 Wow this sounds like a wonderful project to do with the kids. When you are done they can look back and see the fruit of what they created.