Things You'll Need:
- 10-gallon Terrarium
- Approx 50-75 watt reptile heat lamp
- Sand
- Leopard Gecko
- Cave for terrarium
- Shallow water dish
- Calcium Powder
-
Step 1
Before you bring your new Leopard Gecko home we will need to cover the basics. You will need a large enough terrarium, 10 gallons should do it, a heat source and thermometer, usually a reptile heating lamp and bulb (50-75 watts for a 10-gallon tank), some sort of bedding or filler, a water bowl and a few pieces of furniture for your new pet. The furniture is nothing more than an interesting cave or tunnel along with something to climb on. The 10-gallon tank really can be used throughout the reptile's entire life. Sand works well as a bedding. It is a good idea to give your Leopard gecko a shallow bowl to drink from and climb in to from time to time. Some pet stores sell starter kits specifically geared towards leopard geckos; they contain all of the items mentioned above and usually a calcium rich dust for your leopard gecko to get their much needed calcium. Once you have the gear you can find a local breeder or reptile shop in your area and pick our your new pet.
-
Step 2
The terrarium set-up is fairly easy lay down the filler, place the furniture and the water bowl out of the direct heat of your heat source. There are usually two sides of a tank, they warm side and the cool side. Your heat source should be off to one side of the tank with the water usually on the cooler end. Your leopard gecko will eventually find the perfect bathroom spot and will normally use the same spot to do their business which makes cleanup even easier. Ideal temperatures should be around 75 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool end and about 85 degrees on the warm end. During the summer months when your home might be just about 85 degrees or so you can turn off the heat source and use the natural heat.
-
Step 3
Feeding time! This is the fun part. In the wild the leopard gecko eats around dusk. You can purchase large or small crickets from your local pet store or you can opt for the refrigerated live meal worms. Of course you can switch it up too. Most pet stores will ask you if you would like your crickets dusted with cricket dust which boosts their nutrition level, I say go for it. In addition your leopard gecko should have access to calcium at all times. You don't want your lizard trying to get its' calcium from the bedding. I little bit of reptile calcium powder in an upside-down 2-liter twist off cap in the terrerium at all times works perfectly. Your leopard gecko should eat once or twice a week. Younger lizards like to eat a lot more often and older lizards tend to only be interested in food when they have gone about a week without eating. Remember they are used to the desert conditions where they may only get a bug every couple days. Watching these guys eat is always lots of fun. Leopard geckos are sometimes a little clumsy and slow as they get older and bigger which makes them so entertaining to watch.
-
Step 4
Every day or so you should check for any droppings and scoop out using a plastic fork or spoon. Also, fill the water bowl with fresh water daily. You will also want to have a spray bottle filled with water so you can spritz the inside of the cage every week or so to create a little bit of humidity. Leopard geckos don't really need to be bathed, just a spritz with the water bottle every so often will do the trick. A good cage cleaning with fresh sand or bedding should be done on a monthly basis.
Comments
teknical said
on 4/17/2009 sand is optional, that should be written in there somewhere. But yes, I agree they are one of the best first pets.